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A decorative pond is a glorious addition to any landscape. And aquatic plants add a touch of class that can really put your pond over the top. If you’re currently growing aquatic plants in plastic pots, perhaps it’s time to consider fabric Pond Pots. With distinct advantages for your fish and plants, the benefits of Pond Pots are hard to overstate. Cleaner, Clearer Water Fabric Pond Pots are permeable to air and water. So moisture can flow in, but soil can’t flow out. That keeps your water free from sediment that can escape from plastic pots. But here’s an even bigger benefit of pond pots — plant roots can grow through the fabric without tearing it. Submerged roots filter the water by absorbing nitrogen. They give your pond a crystal-clear appearance without expensive filtering mechanisms. Healthier Plants Plastic pots promote root circling, an unhealthy condition in which roots circle the container, becoming a tangled mass. That’s extremely unhealthy for plants because tangled roots can’t circulate moisture and nutrients properly. Left untreated, root-bound plants will eventually die. Pond Pots solve this problem by eliminating root circling altogether. When roots reach the boundary of the Pond Pot, they branch instead of circling. They form a dense mass that supercharges growth and circulates nutrients efficiently. Growing aquatic plants in Pond Pots delivers bigger, healthier specimens. A Safer Environment for Fish Over time, plastic pots become brittle and cracked. The exposed, jagged edges of the pot can cut and injure your fish — not to mention visiting birds, frogs and turtles. Fish and birds are also prone to eating bits of plastic. In birds, plastics build up in the gut, leaving little room for food. By growing aquatic plants in Pond Pots, you’ll protect our feathered friends and avoid scarring expensive fish. Extraordinary Durability Pond Pots are made in America from highly resilient geotextiles. They’re tough, they’re durable, and they never rot. Environmental Safety Contrary to common belief, plastics are anything but inert. When they’re exposed to sun, water and shifting temperatures, plastic containers can leach harmful chemicals into the soil or water. Bisphenol A (or BPA), vinyl chloride, and phthalates are just a few examples, and they are all hazardous to human and animal health. Fabric pots are BPA-free and chemically inert. They never leach harmful chemicals into the surrounding environment. Pond Pots Stay Put! Hard plastic containers are prone to floating around. Pond Pots conform to their supporting surface, keeping them firmly rooted in place. Whether your surface is flat, sloped, or uneven, Pond Pots stay where you put them. When you’re growing aquatic plants, Pond Pots can’t be beat. Give them a try today and see the amazing results for yourself. With bigger plants, healthier fish, and clearer water, you’ll be glad you discovered the amazing benefits of Pond Pots.

If you’re like most people, you know that plants consume carbon dioxide and release oxygen into the atmosphere. Plants are widely known as the planet’s primary oxygen producers. The Amazon rainforest produces about 20% of the world’s oxygen, earning it the nickname “The Lungs of the Earth.” What many people don’t know is that plants breathe oxygen too. During photosynthesis, plants produce sugars to power their biological processes. To utilize these sugars, every cell in the plant needs access to free oxygen. Most plant roots are adapted to absorb oxygen from surrounding soil. Want to grow healthy plant roots? Delivering oxygen is crucial for success. Wait! Who Cares About Healthy Roots? If you want thriving, robust, long-lived plants, YOU DO! Among other things, roots are primarily responsible for absorbing nutrients and moisture from the soil. They also act as a storage compartment for food and vital minerals. Roots circulate nourishment throughout the plant, helping it grow flowers, leaves, fruits and vegetables. Without healthy roots, your plants are in serious trouble. So… how can you keep those roots growing healthy and strong? Technology to the Fescue. Errr…. Rescue. Over the last three decades, scientifically proven techniques have emerged for promoting healthy plant roots. One of the most exciting developments is root pruning pots. Unlike their plastic and clay counterparts, these specialized containers are made entirely of fabric. Innovative fabric construction provides benefits unrivaled by traditional materials. The Benefits of Root Pruning Pots Moisture Control — Overwatering is the #1 killer of potted plants. Why? Because roots can’t breathe when they’re submerged in water. Fabric pots are permeable to both air and water. This revolutionary property helps them prevent overwatering and deliver optimum moisture to the root zone. When water is poured across the surface of the soil, it spreads outward to the sides of the pot. Once it reaches the edge of the container, water passes through the fabric and evaporates into surrounding air. That’s a double dose of good news for roots. They get life-sustaining moisture, and they’re protected from drowning. Air Penetration — Just as moisture constantly flows outward, air constantly flows into root pruning pots. The process delivers vastly greater amounts of oxygen when compared with plastic and clay pots. All that oxygen promotes healthy roots. And healthy roots lead to fitter, faster-growing plants. Root Pruning — In a plastic or clay pot, plant roots grow toward the boundary of the container. Once there, they begin circling the vessel in search of oxygen-rich soil. But plastic and clay pots aren’t oxygen-permeable. So the roots grow to unhealthy proportions, getting tangled in the process. The result is a root-bound plant that is stressed or dying from lack of nutrition. In a fabric pot, the process is completely different. When roots approach the edge of a fabric pot, they form dense, finely branched structures. Notably, they do not circle or become root-bound. The process, known as “root pruning,” produces root structures that are perfect for absorbing oxygen, moisture and nutrients. The result is not only healthy plant roots, but a dramatically healthier plant. Root Pruning Pots: The Ultimate in Oxygenation In addition to root pruning and moisture control, fabric pots deliver plentiful oxygen to the root zone. For your growing plants, that’s a breath of fresh air. Fabric pots are scientifically proven to create incredibly healthy roots. With bigger plants and vastly superior yields, the results are simply breathtaking.

As a consumer category, plant pots aren’t fundamentally different from any other durable good. When comparing products, customers seek maximum value — the biggest bang for their discretionary buck. And when it comes to gardening containers, maximum value unquestionably resides in Smart Pots. Let’s break down key points of differentiation that make Smart Pots the best pots for plants. Room to Breathe: Fabric Pots vs. Plastic Pots Let’s start with the basics. Plastic pots have been in circulation since plastics became ubiquitous in consumer goods. In other words, they’ve been around awhile. Plastic pots provide two distinct advantages. Namely, they’re cheap and lightweight. And that’s where the good news ends. Plastic pots have several distinct downsides that make them vastly inferior to fabric pots. Start with moisture As Isaac Newton famously observed, what goes up must come down. That goes for water flowing through soil, too. Water deposited at the surface is drawn by gravity to the base of the pot. Even if they have drain holes, plastic pots tend to let water accumulate near the bottom of the vessel. Pots without drain holes (and those sitting in drip trays) are even worse off. That’s because overwatering is the single biggest killer of houseplants. Overwatering causes root rot, in part by starving roots of the oxygen they need to survive. When they’re drowning in oversaturated soil, roots can’t respire. So they die and biodegrade. Overwatering invites a host of insect, bacterial and fungal pests that attack roots and make life miserable for plant owners. Ever suffered through an invasion of pesky fungus gnats? If so, overwatering was almost certainly to blame. Now let’s talk about root circling. This is the real knockout punch in the battle of fabric pots vs. plastic pots. In a plastic pot, plant roots will eventually reach the boundary of the container. Once there, they begin circling the vessel in search of oxygen-rich soil. There’s just one problem. Plastic pots aren’t oxygen-permeable. So the roots grow to unhealthy proportions, getting tangled in the process. The result is a root-bound plant that is stressed or dying from lack of nutrition. The Argument for Fabric Pots Now, let’s examine why fabric makes the best pots for plants. First up is moisture control. Fabric pots are permeable, meaning that water and air can pass into and out of the container. When water enters from the top, it permeates the soil and transpires from the sides of the pot. Excess water that reaches the bottom flows through the fabric and exits the vessel. This prevents excess moisture from building up in the container. Goodbye, root rot and overwatering. Next up, oxygenation. As we learned before, roots need abundant oxygen to thrive. In fabric pots, oxygen flows through the container from all sides. When roots reach the container boundary, they sense optimum moisture and oxygen levels. The result is rather astounding. When roots approach the edge of a fabric pot, they form dense, finely branched structures. Notably, they do not circle or become root-bound. The process, known as “air pruning,” produces fine root structures that are perfect for absorbing oxygen, moisture and nutrients. The result is not only a healthier root system, but a dramatically healthier plant. Flowers grow more abundantly. Vegetable yields are off the charts. Plants grow bigger, denser and stronger. When comparing fabric pots vs. plastic pots, there really is no comparison. Smart Pots: The Original Fabric Pot Fabric containers were invented in the 1980s by High Caliper Growing of Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Their flagship fabric container, known as the Smart Pot, is the world’s top-selling fabric pot. Over the years, the market has become flooded with knock-off products. So how do Smart Pots maintain their advantage? By being the world’s best pots for plants. Here are just a few of the factors that put Smart Pots over the top: They’re free of harsh chemicals and dyes that could leach into the soil. They’re 100% BPA-free. Every Smart Pot is made in the United States for unmatched quality control. Smart Pots are scientifically designed to release heat, keeping roots healthy. Smart Pots’ fabric is the perfect thickness to facilitate moisture control. They are incredibly durable, lasting five years or more under normal conditions. Smart Pots provide consistent quality from order to order, unlike foreign competitors. Smart Pots are a scientifically proven product, and the world’s original fabric pot. When you factor in plant health, vegetable yields, durability, safety, and quality, Smart Pots are the planet’s undisputed best pots for plants. At retailers around the world, customers ask for them by name. Put them on your shelves today and watch Smart Pots sell themselves.

A popular trend is gaining momentum across America. In communities coast to coast, school gardens are springing up. Student gardens provide a cornucopia of educational benefits — not to mention delicious vegetables for students and their families. Here are just a few of the perks they provide: Strong Social and Emotional Skills — Collaborating on student gardens improves maturity, communication skills and personal responsibility. Healthy Eating Habits — Kids who grow their own veggies have a greater appreciation for nutrition. Academic Achievement — Gardening is a great method for getting kids interested in science. Students with gardening in their curriculum show greater gains in scientific achievement. 4 Benefits of Using Fabric Pots Starting a student garden can be a huge undertaking. The construction phase alone is often painstaking and time-intensive. Here are four ways fabric pots will make your life easier: Forget About Construction — Take a quick look around the web. Most school gardens are built in greenhouses or fixed, raised beds. With fabric pots, you can leapfrog the construction phase and get right into cultivation. Save a Chunk of Change — At a time when school budgets are razor-thin, securing funds for raised beds or greenhouses can be daunting. Fabric pots offer an affordable, scalable alternative. Is funding scarce? Start small and grow your school garden over time. Enjoy Ultimate Flexibility — Situated above ground-level, fabric pots are highly mobile. They can be transported, sheltered or reconfigured to accommodate changing conditions. Need extra space on the playground? Slide your pots out of the way. Severe weather on the horizon? Move your plants inside to keep them safe and sound. Supercharge Your Science Curriculum — Fabric pots are scientifically designed to promote optimal root structures and hardy plants. Their breathable fabric delivers oxygen to roots while maintaining ideal soil moisture levels. It’s a great opportunity to teach students the principles of botany and plant biology. Want a quick, easy experiment? Compare plants grown in plastic pots to specimens grown in fabric pots. Have students chart the differences in growth rates, plant size and vegetable yields. (Spoiler alert! Fabric pots are vastly superior!) Hands-on learning in a school garden is an awesome way of getting kids interested in science. Psyched About Fabric Pots? Put Health and Safety First. When you’re growing vegetables for students and families to eat, safety is a top priority. It’s important to buy fabric pots that won’t leach harmful chemicals into the soil. Ready. Set. Grow! School gardens provide powerful social and academic benefits to students of all ages. They deliver access to fresh, healthy, affordable food to kids and their families. And they bring teachers, administrators, and parents together to help students succeed. So… What are you waiting for? Start planning your school garden today!

Spring Fever is in the Air If you’re like many plant enthusiasts, you’re probably gearing up for the glorious transition to spring. And that means moving your cooped up tropical flowers back into the great outdoors. As you lay the groundwork for a magical growing season, here are four tips to help you with tropical plant maintenance. 1) Ease Into It Ever taken a tropical vacation in the dead of winter? Spending hours on the beach under the scorching tropical sun can leave your skin toasted. Your tropical flowers aren’t all that different. After months of low-intensity indoor light, a sudden transition to full outdoor light can leave them sunburned or (gasp!) dead. So, take it slow. Place your tropical flowers outdoors for an hour or two a day, gradually extending to around-the-clock open air after 10-14 days. 2) Time It Juuust Right For optimum tropical plant maintenance, you’ll want to imitate climate conditions in the tropics. Ideally, that means moving your tropical flowers outside when overnight temperatures are no lower than 50°F. More importantly, you should make absolutely certain you’re beyond the danger of a freeze. To check frost dates in your area, the Farmer’s Almanac is a great resource. In the early weeks of spring, keep tabs on local weather forecasts, and move tropical flowers inside if there’s danger of a frost. 3) Pick the Right Spot While the sun can wreak havoc on your plants, the wind and rain are no less dangerous. High winds can blow your plants over, causing damage and snapping smaller stems in two. But the greatest danger wind poses is drying out your precious soil. Lack of moisture will leave your plants withered, with an uphill battle in their transition to the outdoors. Excessive rain can also batter your plant — or drown it if your containers provide poor drainage. (Technically, oversaturated soil suffocates roots, which require pockets of air in which to breathe.) To prevent soil oversaturation, consider using fabric containers. Their porous fabric construction allows water to drain freely from the bottom of the container. And when storms or high wind are in the forecast, move your plants indoors or within a protective structure such as a porch. 4) Fertilize or repot. Here’s a final tip on caring for tropical plants. When springtime rolls around, chances are your tropical flowers have been sitting in the same soil for at least a year. Fertilizing —or better yet, repotting! — will give your plants the nutrients they need to explode with beautiful growth. Beyond mere surface appearances, extra nutrients will give your plants the resources they need to thrive under open skies. With some careful planning and TLC, caring for tropical plants outdoors can be a joyous and rewarding hobby. Good luck with transition your precious tropical flowers… Now bring on those sweetly scented breezes of spring!

If you’ve decided to take the plunge and start a raised bed container garden, good for you! Raised garden beds offer numerous benefits over in-ground gardens. They protect your crops from pests like moles and gophers. They’re perfect for areas with hard, rocky soil. And you can set them up just about anywhere — in your yard, driveway, sidewalk, balcony, patio… the options are limitless! If you’re not exactly wild about the idea of building a wood or concrete raised bed garden from scratch, Big Bag Beds are right up your alley. You can get them filled and planted in about an hour for instant gratification. There’s no backbreaking assembly and no construction permits required. The only question is, which Big Bag Bed is right for your needs? Big Bag Beds come in three convenient sizes. First let’s take a look at the little guy, the Big Bag Bed Mini. With its compact size, the Big Bag Bed Mini is ideal for cozy areas like balconies, porches, decks and terraces. Remember, because they’re made of fabric, Big Bag Beds allow moisture to drain from the bottom of the container. On wooden surfaces like decking, be sure to place your container garden on a plastic sheet or tray to prevent moisture damage. The Big Bag Bed Mini is 24 inches in diameter and 8 inches tall, delivering 3.1 square feet of growing surface. Its compact size is perfect for growing smaller crops like onions, kale, lettuce, spinach, radish, shallots, arugula and even strawberries. Clocking in at 50 cubic gallons, the Big Bag Bed Jr. is significantly larger than its miniature counterpart. Its 36″x12″ dimensions deliver greater heft, depth and growing surface — 7.1 square feet, to be exact. The Big Bag Bed Jr. is ideal for level yards, rooftop gardening and plot gardens. Because it’s just 36 inches across, you can easily reach the middle to harvest fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs. In addition to being perfectly sized for a raised flower bed, it’s also ideal for growing beans, carrots, cucumbers, cabbage, sweet potatoes, beets, chili peppers, Brussels sprouts, peas and collard greens. And then there’s the granddaddy of them all, the Original Big Bag Bed. They don’t call it “Big” for nothing. At 50 inches in diameter, this is a full-scale raised garden bed with 13.5 square feet of growing space. Capable of holding 100 gallons (half a cubic yard) of prime gardening mix, the Original Big Bag Bed is ideal for growing larger crops. Use it for beef stock tomatoes, squash, corn, melons, eggplants and asparagus. It’s also perfect for cultivating edibles like horse radish, rhubarb, berries, even dwarf fruit trees. Or create a salad garden with cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and lettuce. Like the Junior model, the Original Big Bag Bed is well suited for level yards, rooftop gardens and plot gardens. Want to go even bigger? Ranging from 80 to 150+ gallons, the Big Bag Long Bed gives you room to spare. This rectangular raised bed is 16 inches wide by 16 inches tall and available in three different lengths: 6, 8 and 12 feet. Featuring built-in partitions to separate your crops, it’s ideal for large installations. Its flexible fabric conforms to the ground and can rest on uneven or slightly sloping terrain. The Big Bag Long Bed — it’s tops for your biggest crops! So, there you have it. Whether you want to spruce up your driveway with a raised flower bed, grow organic herbs in your balcony container garden, or cultivate organic crops in a raised garden bed, well… there’s a Big Bag Bed just for you! So what are you waiting for? Give the Big Bag Bed a try today — and reap the rewards of growing in the world’s original fabric container garden!

It’s Freezin’ Season (and your Landscape is Thirsty!) Winter has arrived in full force. And while your landscape has entered a state of dormancy, it still gets parched every now and then. Let’s discuss how to keep your plants alive in winter with some winter watering tips. (Hint: Watering is mandatory!) Simple Tips for Gardening in Cold Weather Despite the fact your plants are dormant and brown, they should still be watered periodically. Plants that remain dehydrated in winter months often don’t survive until spring. Not only does this create extra landscaping costs in warmer months, it can actually damage your plumbing. How so? Plants that receive insufficient winter hydration search for water on their own. The most frequent target? Your wastewater pipes. Roots will attempt to penetrate underground pipes, causing messy, costly repairs. Creating Watering Schedules for Winter Gardening Choose a warm day with air temperature above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Ensure that the soil is unfrozen. Try watering at mid-day — when temperatures are higher—so it can soak in before it freezes at night. Water your landscape once or twice per month from November to April. New roots form in the months of March and April. It is most critical to water during these months. What to Water When You’re Gardening in Cold Weather Newly planted lawns, trees, shrubs and flowers require the most attention in winter gardening. Established turf and trees, especially those in sunny, windy, or exposed areas should be a high priority. Watering prevents them from drying out due to unique environmental conditions. Established shrubs, flowers, ornamental grasses and groundcovers will also benefit. Do not water cacti, succulents, or buffalo grass. More Tips for Winter Watering To prevent freeze damage, most automatic sprinkler systems are turned off during the winter. To combat this inconvenience, use a hose-end sprinkler or watering wand. Remove the hose from the spigot after watering. Leaving the hose attached can cause water to freeze in your pipes, causing expensive damage. Water for short periods, allowing it to soak in before re-applying. Ensure that the ground doesn’t stay soggy for long periods after watering. This may cause root rot, killing your precious plants. To determine how long to water, place cups in your yard to catch some of the water. Water until you can measure 0.5 to 1” deep in the cups. Once you reach this threshold, you’ll know how long to water in future sessions. Don’t Neglect These Tips for Winter Watering! When it comes to having a lush landscape in spring, the importance of winter watering can’t be overstated. Follow these tips for gardening in cold weather, and your garden will show its gratitude when warm weather rolls around.

“Strawberry Fields Forever” wasn’t just a psychedelic hit by The Beatles. It’s a technique you can put into practice, yielding sweet, juicy hydroponic strawberries year-round. “But won’t the snow and ice ruin my strawberry garden?” you ask. Indeed. That’s why we’re learning how to grow strawberries indoors. Contain Yourself The first step to cultivating hydroponic strawberries is procuring optimum containers. Smart Pots by High Caliper Growing provide the perfect growth vessel for growing strawberries. These fabric aeration containers facilitate a process known as “air pruning.” In a normal plastic pot, a plant’s roots will circle the bottom of the container seeking an opening through which to penetrate. Because plastic pots are solid, plants often become “root bound.” This occurs when tangled roots begin to strangle the plant, causing disease and deficient nutrient delivery. In Smart Pots, roots naturally air prune themselves. When the roots approach the outer boundary of the fabric pot, they branch into hundreds of small, fibrous roots. This optimum root structure delivers the hydroponic nutrients your plants need to survive and thrive. It also allows your nutrient solution to penetrate the growth medium. But more about that later. Selecting Your Growth Medium and Preparing to Plant Once you obtain plants and containers, wash the hydroponic strawberries’ roots to remove the soil. Once this is complete, fill your containers about halfway with a growth medium. Numerous options are available, but vermiculate is a safe and inexpensive choice. Place your plants into the partially filled containers and cover the remaining roots with vermiculite. Make Room Hydroponic strawberries need plenty of room to thrive. Optimum spacing calls for about six inches’ distance from the crown of one plant to the next. To achieve the maximum yields, utilize shallow, soft-sided containers. This will allow your hydroponic strawberries to create “runners,” also known as “stolons.” These specialized roots emanate from mature plants, and penetrate the growth medium to produce new specimens. Over time, and with proper nutrient application, stolons can produce a thickly matted strawberry bed that produces year-round. See the Light Hydroponic strawberries grow best in full light. Place them in a window that receives at least six full hours of sunlight per day. If this is not possible, consider installing LED or hi-pressure sodium fixtures. If you’re using high-pressure sodium, ensure that you have sufficient ventilation in your grow room. You don’t want your precious hydroponic strawberries wilting in excessive heat! But don’t forget – darkness is equally as important. Your plants will require 6 to 8 hours of darkness each night to fully recover and thrive. Don’t Forget Feeding Time Like all-fruit bearing crops, your strawberries will require hydroponic nutrients. Now that your plants are situated with plenty of light, you’ll want to flood their roots systems with nutrient solution. But don’t overdo it. Over-hydrating leads to rot. Soak your roots systems in your Smart Pot containers for about ten minutes a day, allowing the solution to completely penetrate the container. Once this is done, allow your Smart Pot to drain onto a plastic surface (typically an ebb and flow table) and allow the remaining fluid to drain into your reservoir. Check the water level daily to ensure that your hydroponic strawberry roots are receiving sufficient fluid levels. With attention to details and a little luck, you’ll be dining on succulent hydroponic strawberries in about four to eight weeks!

Increasingly seen in posh restaurants and urban windowsills, edible microgreens are highly nutritious, packed with flavor, and easy to grow. So what are they, exactly? Microgreens are edible plants grown until they produce their first adult leaves and then harvested for consumption. Microgreens are cheap to produce and eliminate the risk of food-borne illness associated with sprouts. They take anywhere from eight to 21 days from planting to harvest. So if instant gratification is your thing, a micro garden is right up your alley. Here’s an easy, step-by-step guide to help you grow your own greens. Step 1: Select your seeds. A vast array of plant varieties grow well in a micro garden setting. Some popular varieties include broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, carrot, chard, chia, sunflower, buckwheat, beet, Chinese celery, coriander, garden cress, onion/chives, mustards, kohlrabi, Orach, parsley, peas, radish, sorrel, and spinach. As you’re selecting seeds, bear in mind that you’ll be growing each variety in its own container. So there’s no need to buy every seed packet on the rack. Step 2: Presoak seeds to help them germinate quickly. Place them in warm water a few hours before planting or give them an overnight soak. Step 3: Prepare your soil. If you’re an avid home gardener, you probably have your own, top-secret soil recipe. If not, don’t worry. A high-quality organic potting mix will do the trick. You can amend your mix with nutrients if you want. But it’s widely agreed that most nutrients in microgreens come directly from the seed itself. So don’t spend a fortune on soil amendments. Mix soil and water in a large bin or trash can and squeeze out excess moisture before placing it in your container garden or tray. If you use a tray, be sure to line the bottom with a moist paper towel to prevent spillage. For trays, you’ll want to use .5 to 1.5 inches of soil. In a container, leave 1 to 2 inches of unfilled space at the top. Step 4: Spread your seeds. If you’re seeding fast-growing types of microgreens (those with harvest times around one week) spread your seeds densely across the surface of the soil. For slower-growing types of microgreens (with two- to three-week harvest times), spread your seeds more thinly. Step 5: Press and cover. Use your fingers to lightly press your microgreen seeds into the soil, then cover them with a moist, unbleached paper towel. This blocks out direct light, mimicking the subterranean conditions typically experienced by germinating seeds. Wrap the top of your container in plastic wrap to retain moisture. Be sure to poke ample holes in your plastic wrap to allow for airflow. Step 6: Water. Check your micro garden at least once a day and water when needed. Remember, you want a moist but not wet environment for your crop. A spray bottle is great for keeping the top layer of soil from drying out. And if you’re using a fabric pot, you’re in luck. Fabric pots provide optimal drainage for microgreens. Simply place your pot on a plate or saucer to collect the water as it drains from your container. Step 7: Remove towel and place in indirect light. After two or three days, remove the paper towel. Your microgreens are now ready for some indirect light. But remember, these guys are fragile. Avoid hot, intense sunlight by placing your microgreens in a window sill or under fluorescent lights. Continue watering daily until your crops are ready for harvest. Step 8: Harvest and enjoy! When your microgreens are one to three inches tall, they’re ready for your plate. Snip them with a pair of sharp scissors and use them in salads, soups, stir fries, or nutritional shakes. You can use them to spice up a sandwiches or add a splash of flavor to your favorite meat dish. Microgreens are a burgeoning trend that’s poised to go mainstream. With minimal effort, you can grow, harvest and enjoy these delicacies year-round. Sure, they may be small. But microgreens are huge on flavor and nutrition. So what are you waiting for? Try your hand at micro gardening today!

If you’re into gardening, you’ve probably heard rave reviews about compost. That glowing admiration is well deserved. Over the years, compost has earned a reputation as the “black gold” of soil amendments. And the reason is simple. Composting is an eco-friendly practice that reduces landfill, saves you money and delivers much-needed nutrients to supercharge plant growth. If you’re ready to learn how to compost, here are 6 simple steps to get you started. Step 1: Establish a compost site. While numerous companies sell fancy compost bins, all you really need is a flat stretch of ground. Because your compost needs to stay moist, you may want to pick a place in the shade. Try to find an area that is at least three feet in diameter. An area of this size can facilitate the internal temperatures necessary for the decomposition of organic materials. If you have a large amount of material to compost, pick a larger area or establish multiple piles. Step 2: Gather your materials. Wondering what to compost? You’ll need carbon-rich materials like leaves, shredded paper, straw, and pine needles. These are often referred to as “brown materials.” You’ll also need nitrogen-rich matter like grass clippings, vegetable scraps, fruit rinds, and horse or cattle manure. You may hear these referred to as “green materials.” Regardless of their actual color, you’ll want to mix these two types of materials to fuel the beneficial microorganisms that decompose your compost pile. That’s composting 101. (Note: When you’re learning how to compost, DO NOT add meat scraps or pet waste from carnivorous animals like dogs or cats. While it’s possible to compost meat products and animal waste, the process produces unpleasant smells, attracts biting flies and draws scavengers like raccoons, possums, coyotes, and even bears. For composting meat products, you’ll need a special, airtight bin that traps in smells and keeps out pests.) Step 3: Layer your materials. How to start composting is a pretty straightforward affair — start with a thick bed of brown matter like leaves. This creates an effective drainage mechanism to keep excess water from building up. Next, layer or mix in successive additions of brown and green materials. Shoot for a ratio of 3 parts brown matter to one part green matter. If you end up with a more even ratio (something like 50-50), don’t worry. Nature will take its course, yielding rich organic material for your garden. Step 4: Stir it up. Turn your pile over every week or two. You can expedite the process by shoveling the pile into an empty, adjacent space. Try to mix it up well, moving decaying materials from the top to the bottom and vice versa. You’ll also want to move outside layers toward the middle of the pile. Don’t worry. It’s not an exact science. As long as you shuffle the compost around nicely, you’ll continue to see it decompose into that highly sought-after black gold. Step 5: Water as needed. Just like houseplants, it’s possible to overwater your compost. Too much water can drown out beneficial microorganisms and leach valuable nutrients into nearby soil. But moisture is absolutely necessary to the composting process. If your compost pile is looking parched, water it once every week or two. Step 6: Cash in on that black gold! Your pile will finish composting somewhere between one and five months. It all depends on moisture levels, how often it’s turned, and the sheer size of decomposing materials. Bigger materials like sticks and branches take much longer to compost, so shred your materials to the smallest size you reasonably can. This is an important consideration when you’re thinking about what to compost. When your pile is finished, it should have a rich, organic smell and deep, black color. Once your compost hits this stage, you can use it as potting mix, amend your garden soil with it, or use it as a nutritious top cover in your garden. The result will be healthier, more vibrant plants and larger yields on your vegetable crops. Now that you know how to compost, get out there and start layering your materials. When you see the results in your garden, you’ll know why it’s such a popular pastime!

When you think of a winter bouquet, what comes to mind? Artificial flowers stuffed in a vase? Dead, lacquered flowers glued to a straw wreath? This year, take a different approach. Grow your own, living winter bouquet in your window sill. Holiday flowers create a cheerful, festive ambiance for you, your family and visitors during the holiday season. Grow your own winter flowers using these five simple steps. Step 1: Choose the right species. When selecting Christmas flowers, you want species that add a splash of vibrant color to gray winter days. Suitable species include African violet, begonia, cyclamen, geranium, hibiscus, kalanchoe, cape primrose, Christmas cactus, and many more. Check with your local nursery to find species available in your area. You can also take cuttings of your outdoor summer plants and grow them indoors. Remove leaves from the lower two inches of the cutting and hydrate it for several days in a vase. It will then be ready for transplanting. Step 2: Transplant and water. Place your winter flowers in a container with organic potting mix. Organic mix provides the right balance of nutrients to keep your flowers growing strong all winter long. Consider transplanting into fabric pots to promote even watering and drainage. Place your fabric pot on a saucer or plate to collect water that drains through its porous surface. Water thoroughly once or twice a week, and keep an eye out for wilting. If your plant starts to sag, it’s time to give it a drink! Step 3: Create optimal lighting conditions. Place plants that thrive in direct sunlight in southern or western windows. Position shade-loving plants in bright, indirect light. Winter flowers bloom best when they’re given a full night of darkness. So keep them in rooms where the lights remain off at night. If you have trouble creating lightless conditions, you can always move your plants to a closet where they’ll get an uninterrupted night’s rest. Step 4: Fertilize. While your organic potting mix provides tons of beneficial nutrients, it never hurts to fertilize. After several months of growing, your plants may begin to slow down. This is the perfect time to add a water-soluble fertilizer. You can mix fertilizer in water and pour it over the soil or use a fertilizer spike that penetrates beneath the surface. Fertilizer spikes deliver nutrients directly to the root structure. If your plant exhibits pale leaves or poor growth, it may be high time to fertilize. Step 5: Deadhead old flowers. When a flower dies, the plant concentrates its resources on seed formation at the bud site. This detracts from its ability to form new, thriving flowers. To keep your holiday flowers blooming throughout the season, deadhead old flowers when they die. Simply cut the stem with scissors below the dead flower and just above the first healthy set of leaves on the stem. By deadheading, you allow the plant to re-focus its energy expenditure on holiday flower formation. Living winter bouquets are an attractive alternative to mass-produced Christmas arrangements. Their vibrant colors and perfumed aromas light up any holiday gathering. They’re also the perfect antidote for the winter blues. So don’t delay. Take cuttings today or visit your local nursery. When the skies turn gray, and the snow is churning, you’ll be glad you grew winter flowers!

The Big Chill (or Just Chill): Get a Spring Fever Fix by Forcing Bulbs Prepare to banish those cold weather blues by forcing bulbs into winter blooming. Nothing says “springtime!” more resoundingly than golden yellow daffodils, fragrant purple hyacinth, and heavenly scented paperwhites. And you may be surprised at how easy it is to learn how to force bulbs. Once you get the hang of it, forcing bulbs may become your easiest gardening project ever! Forcing bulbs for winter blooms is as simple as fooling them into thinking it’s spring. Think about a bulb planted outdoors in the fall. It’s cool and dark for a bit, then gradual warming wakes up the flower inside that brown, papery shell. Just replicate those conditions, and you know how to force bulbs into blooming — on your schedule. They say you can’t fool mother nature, but forcing bulbs indoors is pretty darn close. When you’re forcing bulbs, timing is of utmost importance. It’s similar to planting seeds — you have to master the temperature and lighting parameters required to produce blooms. First, count backward from the time when you want to see those spring flowers. Forcing bulbs of fragrant hyacinth for a centerpiece? Plan ahead, because these blue, purple, pink, or white beauties take 8-12 weeks of chilling in order to break dormancy. An empty crisper drawer in your fridge will work if you don’t have a cold frame, outdoor shed, or garage area. Wherever you store your bulbs, ensure the area stays dark, with a temperature of 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit. Once chilled, bulbs can be placed into a glass “forcing jar” to help the roots, stems, and flowers emerge. Choose a container that keeps the bottom of the bulb in water while the top stays dry. This allows the roots to fully develop, and the leaves, stem, and flower to emerge without rotting the bulb. The same goes for daffodils (12-15 weeks chilling), tulips (10-16 weeks), and crocus (8-15 weeks). One great method of forcing bulbs indoors is to layer a container with soil. Place bigger bulbs in lower layers and smaller bulbs higher up. Start at the bottom with read, daffodils, hyacinth, or tulips. Tuck them in with a layer of soil, then plant smaller bulbs like muscari (grape hyacinth in shades of purple, marine blue, or white). Toward the top of your container, some tiny Tete-a-Tete daffodils are a nice touch. Chill the whole shebang, and then bring it in for an explosion of spring, regardless of the weather. Some florists, garden centers, and even grocery stores sell pre-chilled bulbs. They also carry bulbs like paperwhite narcissus that don’t require chilling. Fill a clear container with pea gravel, glass beads, or even sea shells to support the bulbs and emerging stems for a dramatic, super-easy method of forcing bulbs indoors. Be smart and buy out those end-of-season bulbs at a deep discount. Then chill and watch the magic happen. You’ll be glad you learned how to force bulbs. It could become habit-forming!

Bring your herb garden indoors and enjoy fresh flavor all year long. From finding the right light to choosing breathable containers, these easy tips will help your basil, mint, and cilantro thrive right on your windowsill, even after summer fades.

An Expert’s Observations on Smart Pot Plant Containers Download as PDF Tyler Strait takes horticulture seriously. At age 11, he began working at his father’s landscaping and tree service company. The passion he developed there propelled him to the horticulture program at Michigan State University. Eventually, he landed the position of Sales Manager at GrowGreenMI, one of Michigan’s largest horticultural supply stores. With 18 years of industry experience, Tyler has a keen eye for gardening products. And he’s had a front-row seat to Smart Pots’ success in the indoor-growing industry. “GrowGreenMI has been around for six years, and we’ve been selling Smart Pots since day one. It’s no coincidence they represent 95% of our fabric pot sales.” Winning Over the Sales Team with Superior Plant Pots One advantage of Tyler’s sales job is the constant stream of free samples. Tyler and his sales team are avid growers, so they get to test a never-ending supply of new products. “It seems like there’s someone in here every day trying to sell us a new fabric pot. Occasionally, our guys try them out. I’ve personally tried over 10 different brands of fabric pots. But we all keep coming back to the Smart Pot. It’s just a whole different level of quality.” Key Differentiators Put Smart Pots Ahead of the Game Tyler manages a portfolio in excess of 10,000 products. And he’s always on the lookout for merchandise that sells quickly, generating an attractive ROI. Smart Pots offer distinctive differentiators that make their products stand out. “For starters, it’s 100% American-made. In Michigan, that’s huge. I don’t have to worry about some Chinese manufacturer using a toxic dye. Then there’s the construction. Smart Pots use a thin fabric that dries quickly and evenly. Their competitors use this thick fabric that stays damp. You might as well be growing in a wet diaper. It totally defeats the root pruning advantage you’re supposed to get with fabric pots. And the packaging is excellent. It looks great on the floor.” Towering Inventory – and Sales In addition to dominating its own product category, Smart Pots have been one of the hottest overall products at GrowGreenMI for many years. “You know the mantra in sales: ‘Stack it high. Make it fly.’ We keep 100 cases stacked up on the floor, and we go through five to ten a day. To give you an idea, that’s up to 500 Smart Pots each and every day. When customers come looking for a fabric pot, they walk out of here with a Smart Pot 95% of the time. And the cross selling is effortless. When you sell Smart Pots, you WILL sell soil, tomato cages, bamboo stakes, fertilizer… It’s really a no brainer.” With attractive packaging, American craftsmanship, and high-quality fabric construction, Smart Pots have solidified their place in GrowGreenMI for years to come. Find a DistributorWant to Sell Smart Pots?

Throughout those warm summer months, your beautiful tropical plants doubled in size and provided eye-candy all season long. You don’t want to throw it all away by simply letting them die during the cold winter. You already know how much sunlight they need, how often to water, amount of nutrients needed, etc. But when overwintering tropical plants, their care may change once they’re in your home. Providing care for plants in the winter is easier than you might think. Follow these steps on how to overwinter tropical plants and your new guests will enjoy a healthy winter indoors. 1. Ease your plants into it. Once outdoor temperatures start to reach 50 degrees or below, begin transitioning your plants inside in the evening. This can take place over a 2-3 week period while your plants adjust to their new atmosphere inside. 2. New pots = rot. It’s natural to assume you’ll need to repot when overwintering tropical plants, but that can sometimes do more harm than good. With less sunlight and water, your plants foliage and root growth will slow dramatically. By keeping your plants in their same containers you will limit unused soil space which can help to prevent soggy roots and root rot. 3. Water less. Once brought indoors, the best way to care for plants in the winter is to manage their hydration appropriately. Most plants only need to be watered about once a week. 4. Manage those pests. Check your plants weekly for pests and easily manage them with insecticide soap. Bugs and other critters often try to make their way indoors during the winter, and you don’t want them munching on your beautiful tropical plants when they do. 5. Sunlight. The amount of sunlight tropical plants need during the overwintering process can vary greatly between various plant types. Some plants can be allowed to experience the first few days of colder temperatures to trick them into shedding foliage and going dormant. These types of plants can often be left in complete darkness and watered just often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. Other plants will need to be kept in their “growth” stage and be given warm temperatures and as much light as possible. Too much or too little light can ruin all that hard work, so be sure to do a little research to ensure you are giving the proper conditions for your specific types of plants. By overwintering tropical plants, you’ll start next season with a big leg up — and save lots of cash in plant replacement.

Cool fall and winter nights can be a disaster for your plants if you’re not prepared. To protect your plants from the seasonal dips in temperatures, build a cold frame with straw bales. It’s a great way to care for plants in the winter without breaking the bank. 1. Determine your space needs. Group the plants you want to protect, and measure the space that you need; length by width by height. Be sure to allow space in between the containers to give them some breathing room, and so you have room to tend to them. 2. Find your location. Cold frames are traditionally constructed backed up to a building for insulation. Choose a south or west wall to provide your plants with the best sun exposure during the short dark days of winter. The combination of solar heat, plus the insulating properties of the building and straw bale walls are the keys to successfully caring for your plants. 3. Find your materials. With your measurements in mind, purchase enough straw bales to build the three walls (the building provides the fourth wall) at the height you need to accommodate your plants. Just line ‘em up and stack ‘em. It’s easiest to have your plants in place while building, rather than fitting them in later. Heavy, translucent plastic is best for the top, and you can secure it in between the last two bales in the walls. Your local home improvement center will have a selection of plastic to choose from. Many cold frames have tops that angle out from the back wall at about 45 degrees to increase the surface area for solar heating, but if it’s not convenient to attach the plastic to the building, just tuck it between the bales and the building. Remember you will need to open it up for watering, so make allowances for that. Come spring, store your bales for next year, use it as mulch for the garden or spread it on your compost pile.

Grow Better Food with Well-Fed Soil Looking to improve soil quality? Then it’s high time to plant cover crops! Cover cropping is a tried-and-true, old-school, economical way to build better soil. And better soil means better fruits, flowers, and veggies. Back in the day, every farmer and backyard gardener knew the benefits of cover crops — they aerate and add nutrients to the soil between harvests without chemicals or expensive nutrients. Cover cropping is nature’s way to improve soil quality. So when you plant cover crops, you are working hand-in-hand with nature. Need to add nitrogen to your soil? Plant cover crops of legumes like crimson clover, hairy vetch, or alfalfa. Cover cropping with legumes fixes nitrogen into the soil. Plant them in the fall to add organic matter and nutrients to your soil by tilling them under when it’s time to plant in the spring. To increase organic matter in your soil, plant cover crops of annual grasses like winter rye, annual rye, oats, or barley. Grasses don’t improve soil quality by fixing nitrogen like legumes do, but they are great at adding organic matter and aeration. Want the best of both worlds? Look for a cover crop seed blend that combines a legume seed with a grass seed. Hairy vetch and annual rye are a popular combination. The benefits of cover crops aren’t limited to improving soil quality. When you plant cover crops you also protect against erosion from winter wind, rain, and storms. Cover crops control weeds, and hold moisture in your soil. Just cut them down before they set seed and dig them into the soil. Home-grown nature’s compost, naturally made.

Funky, fun, and fancy — these aren’t your everyday pumpkins! From teeny-tiny to gigantic, white to aqua to gold, pumpkins are everywhere these days, signaling a change of seasons and heralding celebrations to come. These fancy, funky pumpkins can have hefty price tags, too. So you may have been wondering how to grow your own. If you have been thinking about how to grow pumpkins for future festivities, take a look at these tips on planting pumpkins, pumpkin growing, the best way to grow pumpkins, and how to grow pumpkins in a pot. Planting pumpkins from seed? You’ll need to get started in late spring or early summer for them to mature in the fall. The soil temperature will need to be at least 60 degrees. Check with your local county extension office for the best planting time in your region, or check the back of your seed packet. Pumpkin growing can take a lot of room, as the vines can extend to incredible lengths. So learning how to grow pumpkins can be as much about site selection as it is about planting pumpkins. You will need at least six hours of full sun, high-quality soil, great drainage, and plenty of water. Lots of folks find the best way to grow pumpkins is by controlling these factors and investigating how to grow pumpkins in a pot. A 20- to 30-gallon soft-sided container will give you all the soil volume and water capacity you need for success, plus the ability to place your container in the best possible sun. Considering an even bigger container, or soft-sided raised bed? You can plant a couple of pumpkin plants and watch them explode! Pumpkin plants have separate male and female flowers and require pollination for successful pumpkin growing. One of the best ways to grow pumpkins is to plant a couple side by side. This increases the odds of male and female flowers being close enough for effective pollination. You can hand pollinate if necessary but Mother Nature should do most of the work for you. Add a slow release fertilizer, consistently moist (but not wet) soil, and plenty of sunshine. Boom! You’ve learned how to grow pumpkins yourself. Learning the best way to grow pumpkins is easy. Deciding which of the funky, fun, and fancy varieties to plant may be a the biggest challenge of all!

So you’ve spent a great deal of time, energy, and cold, hard cash throughout the spring and summer on your garden. And you’ve been richly rewarded with a more beautiful, biodiverse, and bountiful environment. Now fall is in the air, and it’s time to turn your thoughts to colder months and how to protect your plants in winter. In order to build on this year’s success, winter plant protection is essential. After all, why would you start from scratch in the spring when protecting plants in winter can give you a tremendous jump-start on next year’s garden? Here are three simple strategies for how to protect plants in winter. They’ll give you and your garden a leg up in the spring. 1. Winter mulching: Perhaps one of the easiest and most efficient ways of protecting plants in winter is to use mulch. Heap up shredded or whole fall leaves, pine straw, or bark mulch around your perennial flowers, herbs, shrubs, and fruits and veggie crowns. Mulching moderates soil temperatures, blocks cruel winter wind, and preserves moisture in your soil. In spring, push the mulch back gradually, and turn it under or add it to your compost pile to put nutrients back into your garden. It’s definitely a win-win. Winter mulching can prevent a phenomenon known as “freeze-thaw” – the result of water in the soil freezing and expanding then thawing and contracting. This process pushes plants up and out of the soil, leaving the roots vulnerable to freezing. Also known as “frost-heave,” it’s one of the main causes of winter kill in many parts of the country. 2. Up-cycle: Bubble wrap, old windows, picture frames, shower curtains — you name it. Creative minds are using a multitude of “found treasures” to create deliver winter plant protection. Cold frames, hoop houses, high tunnels, and greenhouses can make growing plants in winter possible in many parts of the country. Fresh salad greens, peas, root veggies, and many cole crops thrive if you provide winter plant protection. Whether you buy protective structures or cobble them together, you can create an inviting micro-climate on your patio, deck or in your own backyard. Harvesting tender, fresh produce in the short, dark days of winter makes the effort of growing plants in winter all the more rewarding. Snoop around online for inspiration and ideas. And take advantage of sunny fall days to put together your one-of-a-kind solution for how to protect plants in winter. 3. Heeling In/Moving In: Container gardeners offer even greater flexibility when it comes to providing winter plant protection. One tried-and-true approach is to group your containers together, and heap soil and mulch over the containers in a method called “heeling in.” Most nurseries and garden centers use this method to protect unsold stock for the following spring. Place your pots at an angle for greatest efficiency, and let your containers go partially underground for winter plant protection. If you have the space and some sunshine or grow lights, growing plants in winter can be even simpler. Containers, especially lightweight fabric containers, can move indoors for protection from winter weather. Be sure to check your soil and plants for insects before moving them indoors, and be prepared for some leaf drop and slower growth. If you bring your plants indoors, winter plant protection and growing plants in the winter can be a snap.

Container Planting Tips to Make the Most of Your Smart Pots After a successful gardening season, you may wonder what you should do with your Smart Pots during the off-season. There are numerous options. It all depends on you as a grower how you want to care for your Smart Pots during fall and winter months. Here are some container planting tips to help you care for your Smart Pots. Unoccupied pots: If your Smart Pot is unoccupied, one option is to repurpose it by planting cool season crops like lettuce, spinach, carrots, and beets. Pull out any weeds and nonproducing crops from your Smart Pot and work in some compost or other organic matter. Planting garlic in the fall is another wonderful option. It will be ready to harvest by summer the following year. Moving them inside: Dwarf citrus trees or tropical varieties can be planted in a Smart Pot and kept indoors over the winter. Be sure to follow the lighting and potted plant care instructions provided with the tree or plant. Place the Smart Pot in a plastic saucer or tray to capture excess water. If you have a large decorative pot, place the Smart Pot inside it, making sure there’s ample space between the inside of the decorative pot and outside of the Smart Pot to allow for proper air flow. If you have smaller-sized Smart Pots, start an herb garden in your kitchen. There are plenty of options for growing plants indoors this winter. Also, keeping Smart Pots inside will protect them from snow and ice, enhancing their longevity. Keeping them outside: Maybe you are done gardening for the year and want to relax your green thumb until spring. Larger-sized Smart Pots can be left outdoors year round. If you are concerned about the harsh winter elements, cover your Smart Pots with yard scraps like leaves or even mulch to protect them from the winter weather. When spring rolls around, you can repurpose your Smart Pots and start the growing season anew. Smart Pots are constructed from durable fabric made specifically for your plants, and their average lifespan is three to five years depending on the grower. So you can expect to use your Smart Pots for multiple seasons — whether you leave them outdoors or bring them in. Another option is to completely empty your Smart Pots at the end of the outdoor growing season. Let them dry out for a few days, then simply brush off any excess soil and roots that are caught up in the fabric. Fold them up and store in a cool dry space until you are ready to use them again. Continue planting outdoors or bring your gardening inside is up to you as a grower . Either way, there are plenty of ways to take care of your Smart Pot. Have additional questions regarding the care of your Smart Pots? Shoot us an email for additional container planting tips!