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Homegrown tomatoes are a little slice of heaven. Their flavor and texture far surpass store-bought tomatoes, and with a seemingly endless variety of colors, shapes, and sizes available, vine-ripened tomatoes are the jewel of summer garden. Gardeners are constantly striving to increase the health and productivity of their tomato plants, collecting tomato growing tips on everything from fertilization and pruning to disease and pest control. But, not every tomato growing secret is worth paying attention to. To put you on the path to your best tomato crop ever, we’ve compiled six terrific tips on how to grow tomatoes without requiring a lot of your time and energy. And, we’ll start by letting you in on the best tomato growing secret of all: You don’t even need a garden! https://vimeo.com/163562122 Tip #1: Use a fabric aeration container Fabric aeration containers are the perfect place for growing tomatoes. Made of porous, light-weight fabric, these containers are not just easy to work with, they produce superior plants. Tomatoes grown in ceramic, terra cotta, or plastic containers often become pot-bound, and their circling roots reduce both plant growth and yields. But, the permeability of fabric aeration containers means the soil is always well-aerated, leading to the development of lots of fibrous feeder roots and preventing the plants from becoming root-bound. Fabric aeration containers are portable, allowing you to easily move your tomato plants to maximize sunlight exposure. Plus, they’re inexpensive and don’t require a lot of space. Tip #2: Use a high-quality growing medium mixed with compost A very important step in growing tomatoes successfully is filling your container with the right growing medium. Tomatoes grown in the ground are highly susceptible to soil-borne fungal diseases whose spores can readily splash up onto the foliage, while those grown in fabric aeration containers are planted in the ideal growing medium for optimum growth and disease prevention and suppression. To fill your containers, use a 60/40 blend of finely screened compost and high-quality, peat- or coir-based potting soil. Because fabric aeration containers are composed of porous fabric, there’s no need to worry about a high percentage of compost being too dense for good root growth, as is a concern with other types of containers; the roots are always well-aerated in a fabric pot. The compost in this mix has a high water-holding capacity, reducing the need for watering tomato plants, and the macro- and micro-nutrients contained in it are slowly released for plant use over a long period of time. Compost is a known disease suppressor, with much research noting that plants grown in soils amended with compost have a marked reduction in disease, particularly those diseases caused by soil-borne pathogens. The potting soil added to the compost improves drainage and helps prevent the container becoming too heavy. If it contains fertilizer, the potting soil component of the mix also helps feed the growing tomato plant. Tip #3: Plant the right variety When planting tomatoes in fabric aeration containers, some thought should be put into which variety is best for you. While any type of tomato can be grown in fabric aeration containers – from beefsteak or salad to paste or cherry – you’ll want to pick a variety that’s appropriate for whatever size fabric aeration container you have. Use a five- or ten-gallon fabric container for each determinate, patio-type tomato. Larger, indeterminate tomato varieties will perform best in even larger containers, while miniature cherry tomatoes can be grown in a fabric bag as small as two or three gallons. Tip #4: Water wisely When it comes to watering tomato plants, don’t skimp. Regular irrigation results in the healthiest plants and highest yields. On the flip side, inconsistent irrigation can lead to a disorder known as blossom end rot, where the bottom of the fruits develop a dark canker. Tomatoes growing in fabric aeration containers filled with the right mix of growing medium will likely require daily irrigation during the hot summer months; less frequently in cooler weather. Deep, thorough irrigation is best for plants. When watering tomato plants, avoid simply “sprinkling” the plants with a light application of water. Instead, amply soak the root system with each watering. For optimum disease suppression, keep the foliage dry when watering. Wet foliage promotes fungal diseases. Tip #5: Trellis for better growth To maximize the yield of tomato plants and keep the developing fruits off the ground, vines should be staked or trellised to encourage them to grow vertically. While some gardeners choose to pinch off excessive plant growth, others do not. Regardless of whether or not you choose to prune your tomato plants, plant stems should be contained with a wire cage or tied to a trellis or other support structure. Tip #6: Repot and grow tomatoes year-round! Our final tomato growing secret: Tomato plants can be “potted up” into larger sized containers throughout the growing season. Moving an indeterminate tomato variety into a slightly bigger fabric aeration container results in a huge, incredibly productive “tomato tree” that can even be moved into a greenhouse for the winter and grown year-round. With these excellent tomato growing tips, you’ll find that growing tomatoes successfully is a snap.

A Show-Stopping Discovery C.L. Fornari is a nationally renowned speaker, author, radio personality and television host. Known as “The Garden Lady,” she regularly appears at horticultural shows and clubs throughout the United States and Canada. For decades, C.L. grew numerous varieties of plants and vegetables in the ground and in plastic containers. Then in 2007 she discovered another way to raise great plants. Sweetening the Pot Appearing at a garden writers’ conference in Oklahoma City, C.L. discovered Smart Pots at Oklahoma State University’s All-America selection trial garden. Talking to fellow horticulturists, she learned the benefits of air pruning and decided to give Smart Pots a try. Now, she uses them year round. A Solution for All Seasons During winter, C.L. uses Smart Pots to grow salad greens in her solar shed. When spring rolls around, she harvests or transplants her greens, using her newly emptied Smart Pots to grow potatoes outdoors. Smart Pots make the potatoes much easier to harvest, and they provide excellent control over wire worms and other pests. Red heart, carola, russet, and fingerling are just some of the varieties she cultivates. Circling the Wagons Besides air pruning and superior root structures, Smart Pots provided C.L. some unexpected advantages. “They weigh almost nothing. That’s a big deal, because you can move plants anywhere.” When her friend was having trouble growing vegetables in her shaded yard, C.L. concocted a brilliant solution. “I told her to place two smart pots in a Radio Flyer wagon and pull it to where the sun is shining in the morning, afternoon and evening. This gives her a full-sun garden in her shady yard.” Springing to Life As a gardening consultant, C.L. has advice for people in regions where spring is cold or the growing season is short. “Early in the growing season, use black Smart Pots to help your plants stay warm. And make sure to grow them aboveground. It keeps them warmer than soil temperature and accelerates the growth of your plants.” Smart Pots. Smart Choice. Over the years, C.L. has become a loyal customer and advocate of the Smart Pots brand. “I’ve never had issues getting timely responses from customer service, or help with my orders. I also love the fact that Smart Pots are so durable. In the winter I just empty them out, dust them off, then fold and store them away. I’m still using the same Smart Pots in bought in 2008!” That’s high praise from one of America’s highest-profile gardening experts.

Tapping Into Opportunity Anna Haupt was the manager at Fifth Season Gardening Company in Charlottesville, Virginia. For years, she sold flowers and vegetable plants in standard plastic nursery pots. But there was a problem. The plants dried out quickly, their roots tended to bind and they would ultimately tap through the holes in the bottom of the plastic pots. All of these factors prevented plants from thriving as they should. That’s when Anna discovered Smart Pots. A Revolutionary Discovery Fifth Season Gardening obtained samples of the Smart Pot and began experimenting with various vegetables. They quickly discovered that virtually every species thrived in Smart Pots. Soon, they were growing tomatoes, eggplants, hops, potatoes, peppers, herbs, melons, sweet potatoes, aloe and more in these fabric aeration containers. Taking it to the Street The plants grown in Smart Pots were so vigorous, Anna decided to display specimens outside her store. She filled the parking lot with flourishing vegetable plants to attract customers as they drove by. Despite the fact they were sitting on black asphalt, the plants flourished, and customers started to take notice. “They would literally take me outside, point to the Smart Pot and say ‘Where can I get one of these?'” Anna recalls. Fertile Ground for Sales As sales grew, so did unexpected benefits for the store. “Once people try Smart Pots, they’re hooked. It leads to repeat sales, and the profit margins are higher,” Anna noted. When customers buy Smart Pots, they load up on related products like soil and fertilizer, further increasing store revenues. Customer Service: The Cherry Tomato On Top Sales and marketing advantages weren’t the only things that stuck out in Anna’s mind. Throughout her relationship with High Caliper Growing, she appreciated the excellent customer service she received. “I had great experiences with all of them. Even past sales reps were always there to help out when I needed. They’re a wonderful bunch of people.”

Got the itch to get dirty? Too cold to plant outside? Don’t forget you can start many of those popular fruits and veggies growing indoors while this Spring weather starts to warm up. Fabric aerations containers are great for growing plants, fruits and vegetables inside. It’s easy to get your seeds started so that you have beautiful, abundant plants already growing by the time that warm sunshine becomes a daily thing. https://smartpots.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/19545-HCG-Tomatoes-SD.mp4 With hydroponic growing, you don’t need expensive fancy lights to sprout seeds. So if you’re new to this type of growing, keep in mind that florescent lights in your house will do the trick until it gets warm enough. Once warm weather decides to stick around you can simply take your plants outside and replant them. If your hydroponic plants outgrow your current pots before you’re ready to take them outside, you can simply place them in a larger size container to keep them growing nice and full.

When potato planting time arrives, don’t turn over the soil — fill up a Smart Pot instead. You should grow potatoes in Smart Pots. Here is why: Planting potatoes in fabric planter bags makes growing potatoes super simple. Not only are the spuds easy to plant, when the growing season ends, they’re also a snap to harvest. There are many great reasons to grow potatoes in Smart Pots. A large number of potatoes can be grown in a relatively small space. The high volume of soil held in a Smart Pot gives potatoes plenty of room for growth and requires less watering than other containers with a smaller soil volume. Smart Pots are inexpensive and can be used for many years. It’s easy for gardeners with small yards to move lightweight fabric planter bags around to maximize sunlight exposure. The soft-sided fabric of Smart Pots keeps the soil aerated and well-drained, helping to prevent water-logged soils that can lead to potato rot. There’s no need to build raised beds or till up a garden. You can grow potatoes just about anywhere with Smart Pots. https://smartpots.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/019545-ADDED-GFX-Growing-potatoes-in-Smart-Pots-HD-SD.mp4 10 Potato planting tips When planting potatoes in Smart Pots, first consider how many potatoes you’d like to grow. Each pound of planted seed potatoes yields between five and eight pounds of mature spuds. During good growing seasons, you may get up to ten pounds. Next, determine which size Smart Pot is needed. To reduce watering needs and provide enough room for good tuber production, chose the largest sized container you can. A pound of seed potatoes will produce a good crop of tubers in either a single 30 or 45 gallon Smart Pot, or two smaller 20 to 25 gallon fabric planter pots. For smaller harvests, plant a quarter- or half-pound of seed potatoes in a 10 or 20 gallon container respectively. To prepare seed potatoes for planting, cut the larger seed potatoes into one- to two-inch chunks, each containing at least one “eye” (or growing point). Leave any smaller seed potatoes intact. Let the cut potatoes sit on the kitchen counter overnight; this encourages the formation of callus tissue and prevents the tubers from rotting in the ground before they sprout. Fill the Smart Pot with four to six inches of high-quality potting soil mixed with a few shovels full of finished compost. The added compost improves water retention, and adds nutrients and beneficial soil microbes to the container. Next, nestle the seed potato pieces into the potting soil, spacing them approximately six to eight inches apart. Cover them with four to six more inches of the potting soil/compost blend and water the container well. As the plants grow, add more potting mix/compost to the Smart Pot, a few inches at a time, burying the growing potato shoots deeper and deeper until the pot is completely filled and the plants are growing out the top. Allow the plants to grow, keeping them regularly watered. Never let the container completely dry out or the plants will become stressed, resulting in reduced yields. Eventually, the plants come into flower. A few weeks later, the shoots start to slowly turn yellow and die back. Once the potato plants are completely brown, stop watering and ignore the pot for two weeks. The potatoes are curing during this time; this curing process increases their shelf life and thickens the skins. When the two weeks have passed, it’s time to harvest the potatoes. To do so, simply dig through the container with your hands, sifting through the soil to find the tubers. Or, tip the Smart Pot onto its side and dump out the contents. As you search through the spilled soil, the potatoes are revealed. Planting potatoes in Smart Pots is both practical and productive. In fact, potato planting has never been easier!

Planting spring vegetables is a task many gardeners relish. After spending a long winter indoors, gardeners are anxious to step outside and get their hands in the dirt. But, early spring veggies don’t just offer an opportunity to exercise green thumbs, they’re also among the most delectable treats the garden has to offer. Here are five vegetables that thrive in the cool weather of early spring, going from seed to harvest well before the summer temperatures soar. https://smartpots.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/019545-ADDED-GFX-Five-early-spring-veggies-you-can-plant-now-HD-SD.mp4 Snow Peas Like their shell and sugar snap cousins, snow peas are cold-weather veggies best planted the moment the soil can be worked every spring. They germinate best when soil temperatures are between 50 and 60 degrees F, and the plants shrug off spring frosts like a champ. To grow snow peas, sow the seeds directly into the garden four to six weeks before the last expected spring frost. Applying a granular beneficial soil bacteria known as pea inoculant to the seed rows when planting helps the plants acquire nitrogen and typically results in improved yields. Seeds are sown a half inch deep and one to two inches apart. Because many snow pea varieties grow tall, erect a fence, trellis, or garden netting for the vines to climb. If shorter plants are desired, select a bush variety of snow peas, such as ‘Oregon Sugar Pod II’ or ‘Short N’ Sweet’. Most varieties are ready to harvest just 60 days after planting Snow peas should be picked young, when the pods are still flat and the peas inside have just started to swell. Lettuce Lettuce is among the easiest early spring veggie to plant. While you can purchase starter plants from your local nursery and transplant them into the garden, it’s far less expensive – and easier – to start your own plants from seed. There are thousands of different varieties of lettuce, each offering a subtly different flavor, leaf color, texture, and shape. But, no matter which varieties you choose to plant, seeds can be sown directly into the garden as early as eight weeks before the last expected spring frost. For a continual crop of lettuce, sow more seeds every two to four weeks until summer temperatures arrive. Space lettuce seeds approximately a half-inch apart, at a depth of a quarter inch. If full-sized lettuce heads are desired, thin the seedlings to six inches when they form their first true leaves. If you plan to harvest baby lettuce greens, there’s no need to thin the resulting seedlings; simply snip off the young leaves as you need them. For more abundant lettuce try starting your seeds in the Big Bag Bed Mini or 7 Gallon Smart Pot. Not only will you grow more lettuce, you’ll find the process simple and easy to do. Kale Often called a “superfood” for its nutritional punch, kale is a great early spring vegetable to plant. It isn’t the least bit bothered by the cold temperatures of spring and will produce edible leaves just a month after planting. To grow kale as a spring vegetable, sow seeds directly into the garden as soon as the soil temperature reaches 40 degrees F. Bury the seeds one-half inch deep, and space them an inch apart. Unless you plan to harvest only the baby greens, thin the seedlings to six to eight inches apart. Kale leaves can be eaten raw in salads or cooked in stir fries and soups. Try some fun-colored or frilly-leaved varieties to bring a unique touch of color and texture to the kitchen. Radish This is another spring vegetable well worth growing, especially because store-bought radishes pale in comparison to homegrown roots in the flavor department. With their spicy flavor and crisp texture, radishes come in a surprisingly diverse array of colors and shapes. For good root formation, radish must be planted in the very early spring or late in the fall, when temperatures are cool. Ready to harvest in just three to five weeks, radishes seldom disappoint. For continuous production, plant a row of radish every two weeks throughout the spring and harvest the roots while they’re still small. Sow seeds a half-inch deep and one inch apart. Thin the seedlings to two inches as crowded plants do not result in superior roots. Do not apply nitrogen-rich fertilizers to areas where radish or other root crops are planted as the plants will produce excessive green growth at the expense of high-quality roots. Broccoli Like many other members of the cabbage family, including cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and Brussels sprouts, broccoli is an excellent early spring veggie. While you can grow broccoli by directly sowing the seeds into the garden, the plants require more time to mature than some other spring vegetables and may not produce quality heads before hot weather arrives. To accommodate for this, broccoli is best grown from starter plants purchased at your local nursery, or by starting the seeds indoors, under grow lights, about four to six weeks before they’re ready to be transplanted outside. Regardless of whether you grow your own plants or purchase them from a nursery, young broccoli seedlings can go out into the garden four to six weeks before the last expected spring frost. Space plants one to two feet apart for maximum head size. Broccoli grows best when temperatures are in the 60s; hot temperatures can promote premature bolting (flowering) and a slightly bitter flavor. The plants are tolerant of frosts, and if you live south of USDA Zone 7, fall-grown broccoli plants will often survive the winter and produce a secondary crop. Planting early spring vegetables brings both sanity to the winter-weary gardener and homegrown goodness to the kitchen.

Potting mix, also called potting soil, is a soilless blend of ingredients used to grow plants. Often containing a combination of peat moss, coir fiber, vermiculite, sand, perlite, pine bark, compost, and other ingredients, there are dozens of brands of commercial plant potting mix on the market. https://smartpots.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/019545-ADDED-GFX-Which-potting-mix-is-right-for-you-HD-SD.mp4 Though all good-quality potting mixes should be easy-to-handle, well-draining, and light-weight, each brand has its own distinct features. There’s a surprisingly wide variation in texture, water holding capacity, nutritional content, and density among commercial brands of potting mix, and it’s sometimes difficult to know which brand is right for your needs. Evaluating your needs To determine which plant potting mix is best for you, first consider what you’ll be growing. Commercial potting soils formulated with a specific purpose in mind will be labeled as such. For example, if a potting mix was created specifically for seed-starting, it will have a lighter weight and finer texture than other mixes. It’s also likely have a large percentage of sphagnum peat moss in the blend, as peat has natural fungicidal properties which can help prevent damping off, a fungal disease that strikes young seedlings. In contrast, a commercial mixture created for growing containerized trees and shrubs likely contains ingredients such as coarse sand, pine bark, and/or compost for their added weight, increased water holding capacity, and coarse texture. Cactus-specific potting mixes have a gravelly texture, while orchid-ready blends consist mostly of bark chips. There are commercial potting mixes formulated for acid-loving plants, African violets, and many others, too. As you can see, there are many potting mixes specifically tailored to a particular type of plant. There are also plenty of general, all-purpose potting mixes, suitable for everything from container gardens and hanging baskets, to houseplants and raised beds. By paying careful attention to your needs, you can choose your plant potting mix accordingly. Evaluating the label Once you’ve determined whether or not a specific potting mix exists for your needs, it’s time to delve a little deeper. Even among general potting mixes there is great variation, and reading the label gives you a better idea of what you’ll find when you open the bag. In addition to containing the ingredients listed at the beginning of this article, many potting mixes also have a source of fertilizer. Depending on your gardening preferences, you may want to determine if the source of nutrition is naturally derived or synthetic. Natural fertilizers listed on the label include items like dehydrated manure or compost products; plant-based materials, such as corn gluten meal, alfalfa meal, cottonseed meal or kelp meal; mined minerals, such as rock phosphate, greensand, or lime; and animal by-products like feather meal, fish meal, or bone meal. Synthetic fertilizers present in potting soils may or may not be included on the bag’s ingredient list, but they’ll often be announced on the front of the bag by phrases like “feeds plants for 6 months” or “includes slow-release fertilizer.” What to avoid When selecting a potting mix, there are also a few things to avoid. When using fabric aeration containers it’s important to use a heavier soil. A soil that is water retentive will allow the water to stay within the confines of your soil and aerated container so that your plants are getting as many nutrients as possible. Avoid mixes that contain garden soil or topsoil. These mixes are often poorly-draining, and because they many not be sterile, they could contain pathogens or weed seeds. Potting mixes with an unpleasant odor aren’t a smart buy. These may be too rich in nitrogen, or they may contain harmful pathogens or other detrimental ingredients. Skip potting mixes containing mold or sprouting seeds. Commercial mixes labeled as sterile should be free of molds, pathogens, and viable weed seeds. Evaluating the performance After using a particular brand of potting soil, it’s important to evaluate its performance. Make note of which brands work best for you and stick with them. High quality potting mixes that grow healthy, productive plants are worth seeking out and using year-after-year. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different blends to discover the ones that work best for you.

From poor light conditions to improper watering, houseplant growers face many challenges. But for most of them, no problem raises greater concern than an encounter with indoor plant pests. A house’s warm, consistent temperature – coupled with its complete lack of pest-munching natural enemies like ladybugs and lacewings – makes the perfect breeding ground for certain indoor pests. While some houseplants are more pest-prone than others, at one time or another most houseplant lovers will find themselves battling one of the four common houseplant pests listed below. To tackle the problem head-on and bring those indoor plant pests under control, follow the control measures detailed for each of these harmful insect pests. https://smartpots.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Managing-Indoor-Plant-Pests-SD.mp4 Aphids Physical description: These small, teardrop-shaped insects are common indoor plant pests. They can be green, gray, brown, red, or yellow, depending on the species. Young aphids, called nymphs, look much like the 1/8- inch long adults only smaller. Adult aphids may or may not have wings. Signs of damage: Most often found clustered together on new growth or leaf undersides, aphids feed by sucking out the plant’s juices, causing stunted and deformed growth. As they feed, aphids excrete a sweet liquid called honeydew. The honeydew leaves behind a sticky residue, often found on the plant’s leaves, as well as on furniture and floors around the host plant Control measures: For small aphid infestations on indoor plants, wipe the insects off with a wet rag or paper towel. Larger infestations will require a few applications of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Both should be used with care and only according to label instructions. To prevent future aphid outbreaks, do not feed houseplants with nitrogen-rich fertilizers. These promote tender, succulent growth particularly attractive to aphids and other pests. Scale Physical description: Scale insects are varied in appearance, but the most common species found on houseplants look like little bumps on leaf undersides and along stems. Scales often have armored plates surrounding them, and most are immobile and about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch across. They can be brown, white, gray, or black. Signs of damage: The presence of sticky honeydew on leaves and other surfaces around the plant may indicate a scale infestation. Because this indoor plant pest feeds by sucking plant juices, the primary signs of damage include distorted growth and lack of vigor. If a scale infestation is suspected, carefully examine all areas of the plant for small raised bumps that may indicate scale. Crush one with your finger; you’ll know scale is to blame if you find a squishy texture beneath the crunchy outer shell. Control measures: Because of its protective shell, scale is difficult to control, even with indoor plant pesticide products such as insecticidal soap and horticultural oil. Early infestations are best handled by simply scraping the insects off with your fingers. The best control for heavier infestations is manual removal by soaking a cotton ball in isopropyl rubbing alcohol and physically wiping the insects off the plant. You’ll need to do this multiple times for the best control. In very difficult to control situations, move the infested plant outdoors and apply a neem-based pesticide, taking care to follow all label instructions carefully. Do not spray neem-based products indoors. Spider mites Physical description: Spider mites aren’t insects but arachnids. Still, they’re a major indoor plant pest. These extremely small mites are rapid reproducers, so a few of them can turn into a large colony in no time at all. Though many species of spider mites exist, the two-spotted spider mite is a common houseplant pest. Signs of damage: Because these tiny critters spin fine, silky webbing, the presence of webbing on leaf undersides and growing points is often the first sign of spider mite issues. Both adult and immature spider mites feed by sucking plant juices, most often from the underside of leaves. Damage appears as dappled brown or yellow spots on the upper leaf surfaces. Control measures: Spider mites can be controlled by moving the plant outdoors and spraying all plant parts with a sharp stream of water from the hose. This dislodges most mites, but it must be done multiple times to ensure no mites are left behind to start a new colony. Severe infestations can be controlled with an indoor plant pesticide such as horticultural oil or insecticidal soap, though multiple weekly applications are often necessary. Mealybugs Physical description: Mealybugs are soft-bodied insects that cover themselves with a white, waxy substance, causing them to look like small tufts of cotton. They’re often found in cracks and crevices of the plant, and tucked inside leaf nodes. Nymphs look like adults, only smaller. Signs of damage: Because mealybugs excrete honeydew, like aphids and scale the presence of a sticky coating on plant and furniture surfaces is often noted. They feed by sucking out plant sap and cause distorted growth. Control measures: Hand removal with an isopropyl rubbing alcohol-soaked cotton ball is the best bet for light infestations. This insect’s waxy covering makes it resistant to many indoor plant pesticides. For severe infestations, move the plant outdoors and apply a neem-based insecticide or insecticidal soap according to label instructions.

Many gardeners enjoy starting their own plants from seed. Whether annuals, vegetables, perennials, or herbs, starting from seed means a greater selection of varieties and a reduction in cost. When you grow from seed, you can grow a whole lot of plants for very little money. Plus, planting seeds gives you greater control over how your plants are handled from sowing to harvest. While planting seeds isn’t difficult, below you’ll find a ten handy tips to ensure your success. https://smartpots.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Starting-Seeds-in-Smart-Pots-SD.mp4 10 Tips for Planting Seeds Select the right container Though there are many types of pots for plants, when it comes to starting seeds, Smart Pot fabric planter bags are an excellent choice. They’re lightweight, easy to handle, easy to wash, and their porous nature encourages exceptional seedling root growth. Start seeds from a single variety in a one gallon-sized Smart Pot, or if you’re growing multiple varieties, grow several of them together, in a larger Smart Pot. Choose the proper potting mix For optimum seedling growth, fill your Smart Pot with a peat- or coir-based, soil-less potting mix that’s formulated specifically for seed starting. The fine texture and lighter weight of these mixes give young seedlings the best start. Once the container is filled, moisten the potting mix to help it settle. Read the seed packet Because many seeds have specific requirements to encourage the best germination rate, it’s important to read every seed packet before seed planting begins. Some seeds, like begonias, impatiens, and petunias, need light to germinate and should not be covered with soil, while other seeds require complete darkness. Also, be on the lookout for seeds that require pretreatment before planting. For example, seeds with thicker seed coats may need to be soaked in water for a few hours before planting, or they may need their seed coat nicked with a metal file to encourage germination. The seed packet also helps determine when the seeds should be planted. Add the “days to germination” to the “days to maturity” noted on the seed packet, and subtract this amount of time from the date you’d like to make your first harvest. The resulting date is the day you should try to plant the seeds. Sow the seeds Once you’ve noted any specific germination requirements, it’s time to sow the seeds. Planting seeds in rows or blocks easily separates individual varieties, and since you’ll likely be transplanting the seedlings in a few weeks, you can sow the seeds fairly thickly. Space seeds at about two to three times their width. Mark each individual variety with its name and sowing date. Water and cover Water the newly planted seeds with a gentle shower, and then loosely cover the Smart Pot with a sheet of plastic wrap. The plastic wrap maintains a high humidity level around the seeds until they germinate, but to prevent fungal issues, it needs to be removed as soon as the first few seedlings emerge. Lights For the best results, place your newly seeded Smart Pot under a grow light or fluorescent tube shop lights. The lights should remain two to four inches above the plant tops; you’ll need to raise them as the seedlings grow. Use a timer to ensure the lights are on for sixteen to eighteen hours per day. Heat Optimum germination for most seeds occurs when the soil is slightly warmed. Place a seedling heat mat (available at your local garden center) under the pot to raise the ambient temperature ten to fifteen degrees and speed germination. This supplemental heat can be removed as soon as the seedlings have developed their first true leaves. Caring for your seedlings As your seedlings grow, continue to regularly water them. Do not allow the soil to completely dry out. To increase air circulation and cut down on possible fungal issues, you can set an oscillating fan to blow over the tops of the seedlings for fifteen minutes, twice a day. This is easily done by putting the fan on a timer. Transplant Once your seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, it’s time to transplant them. Gently lift the seedlings out of the smart pot by inserting a butter knife into the soil below their roots. Carefully separate the pried up seedlings by untangling their roots. Once separated, the individual seedlings can be moved to nursery cell-packs or small, three- or four-inch plastic nursery pots where they’ll continue to grow until it’s time to move them outdoors. After transplanting, fertilize seedlings weekly with a liquid, organic fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. Acclimate Two weeks before the seedlings are set to make their way out into the garden, take the time to acclimate them to outdoor conditions. On warm days, move the seedlings outdoors and put them in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day. Over the course of the next two weeks, gradually increase the amount of time the seedlings spend outdoors; at the same time, increase the amount of direct sunlight they’re exposed to on a daily basis. Eventually, they’ll remain outdoors all day and night. When this happens, it’s time to plant them out into the garden. By following these ten tips for planting seeds, a beautiful, productive garden is within easy reach.

While spring-blooming daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and other fall-planted bulbs are great additions to any garden, summer-blooming bulbs also deserve a featured spot in the landscape. Planted in the spring, these summer beauties require very little maintenance and can be tucked right into existing garden beds. Planting spring bulbs means a lush garden, filled with fragrance and color all summer long. When to plant spring bulbs Summer-blooming bulbs are most often planted in the spring, as soon as the danger of frost has passed. Though the five bulbs featured below are winter-hardy down to USDA hardiness zone 5, planting them in the spring gives the bulbs plenty of time to get established before the next cold winter arrives. Plus, you’ll be planting them while the bulbs are still dormant and there are no stems or flower stalks that might accidentally be damaged during planting. How to plant bulbs Planting spring bulbs isn’t difficult, but there are some rules of green thumb you should follow when you plant bulbs. First, be sure to plant them at the proper depth. Most bulbs do best when planted two-and-a-half to three times deeper than they are tall. In other words, if the bulb itself is two inches tall, the base of the bulb should be about six inches deep after planting. Next, the majority of bulbs prefer well-drained soils. Do not plant bulbs in boggy areas where they’re prone to rot. And finally, bulbs grow best in soil amended with compost or other organic matter. Work a few shovels of compost into the area before planting spring bulbs. 5 bulbs to plant in spring There are dozens of summer-flowering bulbs, but not all of them are winter-hardy. While dahlias, freesia, and calla lilies are beautiful plants, they won’t survive the winter in northern climates. But, these five exceptional favorites are both beautiful and winter-hardy. Oriental lilies: The large, fragrant blooms of Oriental lilies are total show-stoppers in the garden. With scores of varieties available, there’s a broad range of colors and heights to choose from. Space Oriental lily bulbs about a foot apart, and be sure to stake the stems as they grow; their blossoms are heavy, and they’ll need the extra support. Crocosmia: Just like gladiolus and crocus, this perennial plant technically grows from corms (storage organs similar to bulbs). Reaching about three feet in height, the sword-like foliage is bright green. In mid-summer, stalks of arching flowers extend above the leaves. Common flower colors are red, orange, and yellow, depending on the variety. Crocosmia prefers full sun, and hummingbirds are frequently found dining on its nectar. Asiatic Lilies: Asiatic lilies differ greatly from their Oriental cousins mentioned above. They are earlier blooming, fragrance-free, and brighter colored. Their flowers aren’t typically as large as Oriental lilies and their stems are sturdier, so they don’t require extra support. Chinese ground orchids (Bletilla): If you’re looking for a summer-blooming bulb that prefers the shade, the Chinese ground orchid is for you. Though it officially grows from a bulbous rhizome, this plant is generally categorized as a summer-blooming bulb. A terrestrial orchid, hardy down to USDA zone 5 with a layer of winter mulch, the Chinese ground orchid reaches a mere eighteen inches in height. The distinctive, Cattleya-like flowers come in white, purple, or lavender, and over time, the plants will spread and create a nice colony. Hardy Begonia (Begonia Grandis): With a layer of mulch, this hardy, shade-loving bulb can survive a very cold winter. The leaves of this begonia are shaped like a lopsided heart and are green on top and burgundy beneath. They’re topped in midsummer by masses of pink or white flowers. Though the hardy begonia is late to emerge in the spring, once it does, there’s no stopping it. This begonia naturalizes beautifully and reaches about two feet in height. There’s no doubt that planting spring bulbs brings a blast of summer pizzazz to the landscape – something everyone can appreciate.

Propagating plants is a great way to take your love of gardening to the next level, and starting plants from seed isn’t the only way to do it. Though many vegetables, annuals, and perennials are easily propagated from seed, this is not the case with houseplants. To make more houseplants, vegetative propagation is often the way to go. Instead of a new plant growing out of a seed, vegetative propagation takes a portion of a mother plant (called a propagule) and uses it to make a whole new plant. The propagule can be a piece of the mother plant’s stem, leaf, root, or even just a few cells if the plant is propagated in a tissue culture lab. Though this all may sound a bit intimidating, propagating plants in this manner is simpler than you might think, especially when it comes to houseplants. Stem cuttings are perhaps the easiest way to vegetatively propagate plants. As you might guess, the propagule used to make this type of cutting is a portion of the mother plant’s stem, usually a young, tender shoot tip. While it’s true that not all houseplants can be propagated in this way, there are many that can. https://smartpots.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/How-to-Take-Cuttings-of-Your-Favorite-Houseplants-in-5-Easy-Steps-SD.mp4 Popular houseplants that grow from cuttings: Schefflera Begonia Arrowhead Christmas cactus Croton Gardenia Jade plant Wandering Jew Hoya Pothos Philodendron Kalanchoe Geranium Dracaena Ivy Streptocarpella Chinese evergreen Five simple steps to propagating plants via stem cuttings. Gather your materials. Before trying your hand at propagating houseplants via stem cuttings, it’s important to gather the correct materials. Here are the items you’ll need: A healthy mother plant. Be sure the plant you plan to propagate is disease- and pest-free, and is healthy enough to have some of its foliage removed. A clean, sharp pair of pruning shears. A bottle of rooting hormone (available at your local garden center). A bag of peat- or coir-based, sterile potting mix. A new, one-gallon Smart Pot. A clear plastic bag large enough to enclose the entire Smart Pot. Repurposed dry cleaning bags work great for this task. Make the cut. Locate a few healthy stem tips on the mother plant. Use your pruning shears to snip off three or four of these stem tips just below a leaf node (the place on the stem where the leaf emerges). Each cutting should be three to five inches long and contain one or more leaves. Once you have all your houseplant cuttings, cut off all but the top-most two leaves from each one. Apply rooting hormone. Rooting hormone comes as either a powder, a liquid, or a gel. Regardless of which type you have, insert the bottom inch of the freshly cut end of the cutting into the hormone. Tap off the excess. Insert the cutting into sterile potting mix. Fill the Smart Pot with potting mix, tapping the bottom of the pot lightly on a tabletop to ensure no air pockets remain. Stick the hormone-coated cutting into the potting mix, cut end down, until only the top two inches of the cutting remain above the soil line. Repeat with the other cuttings. You can place three or four cuttings in a single gallon-sized Smart Pot, just be sure the cuttings do not touch. Disease can readily spread from one cutting to another if they are in contact with each other. Water, cover, and wait. Once the cuttings are in place, water them in well, using a gentle shower rather than a sharp stream. Place the entire Smart Pot inside the clear, plastic bag, and secure it with a twist tie a few inches above the plant tops. Use a stake or wire hoop to prop up the plastic bag, if necessary; it should not touch the cuttings. Place the pot of cuttings on a bright windowsill or under grow lights. Do not subject the cuttings to intense, direct sunlight as you’ll risk burning them. The plastic bag keeps the humidity high until the cuttings form their own roots, but the container may occasionally need to be watered. Check the pot every few days and add water as necessary. In four to six weeks, remove the bag and continue to regularly water the cuttings. The rooted cuttings can be lifted out of the pot a few weeks later and moved to separate containers. As you can see, propagating plants is a very rewarding task. It’s fun to see which houseplant cuttings perform the best. And sharing new plants with others just might be the most fun of all!

If you live where the snow flies, you may think winter vegetable growing is impossible. It isn’t. With a little thought and attention – and the right equipment – it’s possible to serve homegrown produce twelve months of the year. https://vimeo.com/151824867 Here are three creative ways to grow winter veggies: Start sprouting! Growing vegetable and herb sprouts is probably the easiest way to get more homegrown green into your diet during the winter months. All you need is a jar, a piece of cheesecloth, and seeds for sprouting. Most grocery stores and nurseries have packets of sprouting seeds year-round. Try radish, alfalfa, quinoa, mung beans, and kale. To grow sprouts as winter veggies, sanitize two tablespoons of seeds by soaking them in a cup of water with two tablespoons of apple cider vinegar for ten minutes. Rinse well, then place the seeds in a clean, quart-sized jar. Fill the jar with enough water to cover the seeds, and cover it with a piece of cheesecloth, using a rubber band to hold the cloth in place. Soak the seeds overnight, then drain the jar through the cheesecloth. Put the jar on its side on the kitchen counter. Rinse the seeds twice a day, draining the water after each rinse. In a few days, you’ll have fresh sprouts. Have an herbal windowsill. Another vegetable growing option during winter is to make an herb garden for the windowsill. Though not all herbs grow well indoors, there are plenty that do. Basil, chives, parsley, dill, sweet marjoram, and thyme all grow well on a windowsill. Plant them in a Smart Pot placed on a large saucer, and use a high-quality potting mix. Snip the herbs as needed, and be sure to keep them regularly trimmed to stave off leggy growth. Use lights to grow micro-greens. You might be surprised to hear you don’t need an expensive, specialty grow-light to grow this winter veggie indoors. Though flowering and fruiting plants need a certain type of light to initiate flowering, plants grown only for their “greens” do just fine with nothing more than a fluorescent tube shop-light. Micro-greens are leafy vegetables harvested while still young. They’re highly nutritious and very easy to grow, and planting them is an easy option for vegetable growing in winter. Vegetables that make great micro-greens include kale, lettuce, spinach, chard, mustard, and arugula. Some nurseries and seed catalogs sell specially blended micro-green seed mixes that offer a variety of greens in one packet. To grow micro-greens indoors, hang a four-foot, fluorescent shop-light on chains from the ceiling. Position it two to three inches above the top of the Smart Pot where you’ll be growing your micro-greens. Fill the container with high-quality potting mix and sow your micro-greens thickly at the depth recommended on the seed packet. Keep the soil well-watered as the seedlings grow, but do not overdo it. The lights should be on for sixteen to eighteen hours per day, and raise them on the chains if necessary to keep them just above the plant tops. Micro-greens are ready to harvest soon after they grow their first set of true leaves. Simply snip the plants off with a sharp pair of shears, rinse them well, and serve them on salads and sandwiches.

Smart Pots aren’t just for outdoor growing. While they’re perfect for vegetable, fruit, and ornamental flower gardeners, they’re also great for houseplant enthusiasts. Why is it so easy to grow houseplants in Smart Pots? Because Smart Pots are made of lightweight, easy-to-carry fabric, it’s easy to transport even large houseplants to the utility sink or bathtub for proper watering. Most houseplants should be watered by allowing at least 20% of the water poured into the soil to drain back out through the drainage holes; this prevents fertilizer salts from building up to damaging levels and possibly harming the plant. Heavy ceramic and terra cotta pots make watering a real chore, but because Smart Pots are porous and light, they make in-the-sink irrigation a snap. Moving tropical houseplants, such as hibiscus and gardenias, indoors and out, based on the weather, is far less of a hassle when you grow houseplants in lightweight containers. To make it easier still, put the plants on trays with rolling casters and simply wheel them in and out as necessary. Because the roots of Smart Pot-grown plants do not circle, your houseplants will never become pot-bound. You’ll find yourself transplanting them far less frequently. Dark-colored Smart Pots absorb the sun’s heat on cold winter days, if the plants are grown in a bright window. Tropical houseplants, cacti, and succulents thrive when their roots are kept cozy. Here is how to grow houseplants in Smart Pots: Because growing houseplants in fabric containers is a bit different from housing them in traditional plastic or ceramic pots, here are a few things you’ll want to keep in mind. Be mindful of watering. Smart Pots are porous, so any water added to the plant may come out through the tiny holes in the fabric as it soaks into the soil. Houseplants growing in fabric containers are best watered where the water can easily drain, without risking harm to furniture, floors, or fabrics. Move them to the sink, bathtub, shower, or somewhere outdoors for watering. Use a drainage saucer. Put a saucer, lined basket, or plate beneath each one of your houseplants. Because Smart Pots absorb and hold moisture, letting them sit directly on furniture can lead to marks and water damage. Colorful charger plates from your local department store are a beautiful and decorative way to keep tabletops protected from water damage. Do not allow water to sit in the plate or saucer, however, as this can lead to root rot. Propagating is easy! As your favorite houseplants grow, many of them can be propagated via stem cuttings. Instead of starting cuttings of your favorite jade plant, baby tears, dracaena, or English ivy in plastic nursery pots, use a Smart Pot instead. Dip the base of a piece of cut stem in powdered rooting hormone and insert the cut end into a container full of fresh potting soil. After watering, cover the entire pot with a plastic bag to keep the humidity high until roots are formed. You can start several cuttings of the same plant in a single Smart Pot, and then transplant them into separate containers when roots form six to eight weeks later. It’s easy to grow houseplants in Smart Pots and fill your home with green! Learn more about managing plant pests in your new indoor houseplants here.

We are often asked “How much mix (or medium) should I buy to fill my 5 gallon Smart Pot?” Or my 10 gallon? Or my three – 7 gallons and one 30 gallon? Planning ahead for this question will make container gardening much, much easier – and a lot more fun! Container gardeners need to consider – Should I buy a few bags of mix, or am I putting out enough Smart Pot containers that I should perhaps buy a load of mix? Depending on the size of your container garden (find out what size container to use), you may want to consider buying a load of mix as opposed to buying a large number of 50 pound bags of mix. Many grow or hydroponic stores, landscape supply stores and/or garden stores sell mix in bulk. Some will deliver to your back yard, while others will load the mix into your pick-up at their place. Purchasing mix by the load is almost always less expensive than buying separate smaller bags. Mix is sold in bulk in Cubic Yards. The minimum amount sold is usually about ¾ of a cubic yard, although this varies depending on the supplier. Multiply the number of Smart Pots you plan to purchase by the cubic yard volume. If the volume of mix needed approaches or exceeds ½ of a cubic yard, you should consider buying in bulk. Following is an approximate volume chart to help you decide if purchasing mix in bulk is a good idea. Smart Pot Gallon Size Volume in Cubic Yards Volume in Cubic Feet #1 0.005 0.13 #2 0.010 0.26 #3 0.015 0.40 #5 0.025 0.66 #7 0.035 0.93 #10 0.050 1.33 #15 0.075 2.00 #20 0.100 2.67 #25 0.125 3.34 #30 0.150 4.01 #45 0.225 6.01 #65 0.325 8.69 #100 0.500 13.37 #200 1.000 26.74 #300 1.500 40.11 #400 2.000 53.48 Find out what size Smart Pot to use

Smart Pots come in a wide choice of sizes, from 1 gallon to a 1,000 gallon. With container gardening, you can grow any plant in any size container. But that does not mean you should. Having one parsley plant in a 100-gallon pot, or growing watermelons in a 1-gallon container, are obviously not optimal uses of the Smart Pot. Please consider the following when trying to decide what size Smart Pot to use: 1. Portability – If you are going to move the Smart Pot around, get a size you can handle. A 10-gallon pot, for example, might weigh twenty pounds or more, depending on the soil mix and water content. Can you move this weight without hurting your back? 2. Do you need the Smart Pot to fit? The Smart Pot has straight sides and no taper. If you are placing the Smart Pot inside another pot, make sure the bottom diameter will fit, and you can lift it out. 3. What is the genetic potential of the plant? A single Impatiens would not fill up a one-gallon Smart Pot. For this type of plant, put a lot of them in our smallest containers. A Bur Oak, on the other hand, is genetically capable of outgrowing even the largest container. Put one in a small container, and plan on moving it as it grows. A giant Pumpkin will fill a large Smart Pot in one season. Do not put it in a one-gallon container and expect stellar growth. 4. Do you want the plant to reach its’ genetic potential? Do you want the plant to stunt in growth? Leaving a plant that could grow very large in too small a Smart Pot for too long will cause the plant to bonsai. Consider your growing style: 5. What type of mix will you use? 6. What type of fertilizers will you use? 7. What type of watering system do you have? 8. What type of lighting system, if any, do you use? The answers for questions 5 through 8 are all related. A sophisticated hydroponic grower, using the right mix with an ebb and flow watering system, with specialized fertilizers and lighting, will grow a larger plant in a smaller container than will a backyard duffer who rarely fertilizes or irrigates. 9. If you currently container grow, we recommend starting with the same gallon size container you ordinarily use. With proper care, the Smart Pot grown plant should grow a little bigger and fuller when compared to the same plant grown in a hard plastic pot. 10. If you are using the Smart Pot to container grow a plant species that you have not previously container grown – and we hope you will container grow something unusual – start by using a size that will give the plant’s root structure room to develop. Then observe the growth of the plant and take notes. Next time you may want a slightly smaller or larger Smart Pot. 11. Try something fun! The Smart Pot fabric aeration container will allow you to container grow plants that are not usually grown in containers. Container grow something that you can not find at the grocery store! Tying it all together… So what do we recommend? Here is a list of sizes we recommend using for various vegetables. These are recommendations only. If you have the space and want to go BIG, we encourage you to choose a larger size Smart Pot than what’s listed. If you have a smaller space or don’t want a large plant, then go down a size or two to find your ideal Smart Pot. 7 Gallon Smart Pot – Garlic, Leeks, Shallots, Lettuce, Spinach, Arugula, Chard, Endive, Escarole, Basil, Parsley, Rosemary, Thyme, Oregano, Sage, Beans, Bok Choy, Kale, Peas, Parsnips, Small Annuals 10 Gallon Smart Pot – Peppers, Artichoke, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Strawberries, Onions, Beets, Turnips, Carrots, Radish, Patio Cucumbers, Patio Tomatoes, Larger Annuals 15 Gallon Smart Pot – Cucumbers, Potatoes, Summer Squash, Zucchini, Patty Pan, Crooked Neck, Eggplant, Tomatillos 20 Gallon Smart Pot – Tomatoes, Musk Melons, Water Melons, Pumpkins, Sweet Potatoes, Winter Squash, Acorn, Butternut, Hubbard

Basics of Growing Potatoes in Containers: You’ll get much better results if you use certified seed potatoes. Most plants require 65 to 100 days to mature completely. Potatoes come in hundreds of varieties, so look forward to different shapes, flavors and slightly differing lengths of growing time. There are at least 2 methods for cutting seed potatoes; cutting as you plant or cutting ahead and allowing the cut surface to callous over. Each piece should be about 1 ½ to 2 ounces with at least 2 eyes per piece. Whole seed potatoes can be planted if they are small. Because potatoes prefer a rich loamy soil with a pH of about 6.0 you must prepare the soil. Check the soil and measure the N-P-K levels if you aren’t sure about the fertility. Check the plant at mid-season. Add extra fertilizer if the leaves are slightly yellow or if the plants are not growing well. Make sure that the soil has reached a minimum of 45 degrees Fahrenheit before planting your seed potatoes. Planting too early in cold, wet soil can ruin your crop. All tubers need regular irrigation. Consistent watering, keeping the soil damp but not soggy, will keep your vegetables happy and healthy. The amount of rainfall in your area will affect the need to water. On average, about 1 inch of rain per week is optima l. Use a rain gage near your container garden to monitor rainfall. Over watering will result in rotting tubers. Under watering will result in lower potato yield. Potatoes do not like long hours of hot, direct sunlight day after day. If you live in an area with very hot summers, you may want to partially shade your plants. Healthy soil and consistent watering will help control pests and diseases. Learn to differentiate between the good, helpful insects in your garden and the pests. Pests such as the potato leafhopper and the Colorado potato beetle can be removed by hand. Remember to look at the undersides of your leaves. Observation and removal is the key to pest control. Growing Potatoes in the Fabric Containers (Bags) Prepare: Cut seed potatoes into chunks having at least 2 eyes each. Allow the pieces to dry and callous over, about 2 days. Fill the Smart Pot container about 1/3 full with a 50/50 mixture of garden soil and compost. Plant: Plant one seed potato for each 3 gallons of Smart Pot container. For the #15 container, for example, plant 5 seed potatoes. For the #10 container, plant 3 or 4 seed potatoes. Place the seed potatoes evenly in the container. Water the soil thoroughly. It should be moist but not soggy. Care: Soon, you will see little stems pop through the soil. Mound up more soil/compost mix, but do not to cover the leaves. The leaves need sun and air exposure. As the potatoes continue growing, continue adding soil/compost mix until you reach the top of the Smart Pot container. As summer ends and autumn nears, the potato leaves and stems will begin to turn yellow. Timing will vary somewhat depending on the potato variety and your temperature zone. When the foliage has died back and the weather is cooler, stop all watering about 2 weeks prior to harvest. The leaves and stems will turn almost completely yellow. You are ready to harvest. Harvest: Don’t use a spade or sharp instrument! Pull out all the stems and leaves, wearing gloves. Dig in and find your hidden potatoes. Store: Arrange potatoes in a single row for a day and allow to dry. Then brush off the soil. Store potatoes in a cool, dry area with good ventilation. Do not store potatoes in the refrigerator! Bag Care: The Smart Pot Container is reusable! Shake out any extra soil and allow the container to dry. Store in a dry location until you are ready to start again next spring.

From Italian herbs and vegetables to other ethnic foods – gardening is still alive and well. Growing your own herb and vegetable garden is one of the most practical and economical hobbies of all time. Before the growth of supermarket chains embracing nearly every corner in suburbia, families once relied on their own ingenuity and gardening skills to put food on their table. Even though modern society has changed quite a bit from previous generations, the joy of gardening is far from extinct. However, this is not say that the style of gardening has not changed along with society. In fact, indeed it has. With the expansion of townhomes, condos, and apartment dwellers, the ability to grow one’s own food could be falsely assumed impossible under these circumstances. However, thanks to the changing methods of gardening, more of us are able to participate in the world of gardening – even when no yard is available. What Happened to Growing Your Own Food? In the mid to late 20th century Suburban sprawl became more common as single income households soon became two income households. Neighborhoods were built with smaller yards to accommodate constructing more residential homes. With busy schedules and families to raise, folks began to buy more and more of their fresh vegetables and herbs at the local supermarket, thus abandoning the task of cultivating their own gardens at home. Why grow your own when you can buy them on your way home from work? Self Sustainability Desirable Again Ironically, today there seems to be a change of tides. On one hand people are busier than ever, leaving less time to spend at home. Yet, these same people are now embracing the idea our ancestors had, not so long ago – grow your own food and be more self reliant. In the past, self-sustainability was a necessity. Today it has become a choice as concerns over higher prices and quality assurance have encroached on the conscience of many consumers. The tide is turning – people want to grow their own food once again. Container Gardening Finds its Home But this doesn’t solve the issue of city dwellers or pint sized suburban yards. Where does one grow food if a backyard is not an option? The answer for many successful gardeners is container gardening, which allows the growth of plants in smaller areas without cramping or overcrowding. Containers can be strategically placed on patios, walkways, steps, or even balconies. For those who have the larger yards yet are afraid of a creating an eye sore, container gardening offers just as valid an answer. Practical Uses for Smart Pots HERBS Growing Herbs in Smart PotsThree common popular Italian herbs which are easy to grow are basil, oregano and parsley. All of these are perfect candidates for container gardening. Place your pots in a location which receives full sunlight and offers easy access, and you will have your dinner’s ingredients within easy reach. Here are some examples: Basil is perfect for sprucing up a marinara sauce, creating a fresh tomato mozzarella salad, and many other quick Italian recipes. Oregano is perfect for pizza or pasta sauce. Parsley is used in Italian potato salads, and is perfect for seasoning meats such as lamb chops or roasted chicken. VEGETABLES You can grow more than just herbs in containers. In fact, vegetables such as tomatoes, zucchini, Italian green beans, cabbage and salad greens, which are frequently used in Italian cooking, are all excellent choices. Here are some examples: Use your tomatoes for a fresh pasta sauce. Or chop some fresh tomatoes along with your fresh basil and add them to some pasta, drizzle with olive oil and serve in a nice decorative pasta bowl set. Use zucchini for making zucchini bread and Italian green beans are a perfect side dish when steamed with crushed garlic and olive oil. Other plants suitable for Smart Pots include rosemary, peppers, potatoes, even watermelons and more. Container gardening offers a full range of benefits from convenience to using seasonal healthful ingredients. Growing your own food, whether for Italian recipes (as this article discusses) or not, is a rewarding and fulfilling achievement for the novice to the generational family gardener. This article is provided by Elizabeth Trementozzi an Italian American who enjoys writing and learning about the simplicity of Italian foods. She is publisher of her own cooking site, where she showcases easy Italian recipes and discusses Italian appliances such as a stainlesssteel stovetop espresso maker – a true necessity in every home in Italy.

The “Smart” Container Herb Garden by Marty Gottlieb For many years, I’ve been growing my culinary herbs in garden containers. As an amateur cook, I appreciate having fresh herbs readily available. More often than not, it’s usually when I’m in the middle of preparing a recipe that I realize I need a sprig of thyme or a few leaves of basil or parsley. This meant a hurried trip to the “back forty garden” where my veggies and herbs were planted. Planting my culinary herbs in garden containers and placing them on my lower deck, just a few, short feet away from my kitchen door, makes them much more accessible. The container herb garden also adds another degree of beauty and interest, as it set alongside the flowering annuals and fig tree container gardens. About five years ago I started switching my container herb gardens from traditional, hard-sided containers to Smart Pots, which are “soft-sided” containers, made of a geo-textile type fabric available in a wide variety of sizes. I was initially interested in these unique garden containers because of their fabric sides, where I can plant more than just the top. I could plant the walls as well by cutting “X’s” and placing young plants anywhere I wanted. My experiment that first year worked so well that my “Smart Pot Culinary Container Herb Garden” has become my standard way of growing these plants every year since. It has become win-win both for the herbs and myself. I have a conveniently located, beautiful herb garden supply and the plants literally flourish in the Smart Pots. “Smart Pots” have been used by commercial tree growers for more than twenty-years. These professional growers prefer using these containers because their trees develop better, more efficient root systems which help produce stronger, healthier, faster growing trees. The Smart Pot’s fabric sides actually “air-root prune” the longer roots causing them to develop masses of lateral ones, rather than the fewer ones found in hard-sided containers. The Smart Pots fabric material also provides excellent drainage and as most gardeners know it is often the lack of adequate drainage that kills herb plants or causes them to do poorly. Smart Pots also offer container gardeners another advantage – they keep the roots much cooler than hard-sided containers during the hot, summer days alleviating heat stress. The herb containers’ porous, fabric material allows the container to “breathe” actually allowing heat to escape by evaporative cooling. I also played around with various garden planting mixes in the Smart Pots. As a horticulturist I was familiar with potting soils and knew that the better ones were developed to provide good drainage. Realizing the Smart Pots’ excellent drainage characteristic I said to myself maybe I could grow my container herb gardens with a heavier, less expensive potting mix, one that actually holds more water. Again, my reasoning was right. I was able to save a few bucks and the herb plants seemed to love practically any growing mix I used. When planting my container herb gardens I fill the Smart Pot with the potting mix and next decide where I want to cut my “X’s” in the walls. I make about 6- 8 “X’s” spaced evenly around the garden container staggering the height of the “X’s” from around one half to three quarters the wall height. In these cavities I plant the prostrate or creeping herbs like thyme and rosemary and even the tiny leaved basil. Curly parsley growing out of the walls is striking. For the container’s top, plant the upright growing herbs like mint, Italian Parsley, sage, etc. You can even try mixing in a few garden annuals like Petunias or Lobelia to add a little color. Just use your imagination. You can’t make a mistake. About the author: Marty Gottlieb lives in upstate New York, where he has been gardening and cooking for over 40 years. He earned a horticulture degree from Cornell University way back in the ’60s. Long ago, he was a New York State Coop Ag Extension agent. Marty has been active in the Horticulture and Nursery business his entire career.

Have you ever tasted fresh dug potatoes? Have you ever tasted a freshly picked-from-the-vine tomato? Cherry tomato? Green Pepper? You don’t know what you’re missing! The problem is that not everyone has room for a garden. There’s a solution… fabric container gardening Traditionally, container gardeners have struggled to grow fruits, vegetables & edibles. Plastic containers get too hot for optimum vegetable growth. A study at the University of New Hampshire showed that on sunny, 80-degree days in New Hampshire, temperatures inside plastic containers can be up to 125 degrees. Potatoes and other vegetables do not grow when container temperatures reach the cooking range. Roots do not grow in 120-degree soil, and if the roots do not grow, your plant will not grow. Smart Pot fabric containers release heat Heat release makes growing vegetables in containers possible. With fabric Smart Pot containers your potatoes and vegetables continue growing all season long. And heat cannot build up in the Smart Pot. We have had great success container growing these plants with the Smart Pot. Support plants from the roots up A look at the mechanics of containers explains why the Smart Pot is better for these touchy plants. The Smart Pot allows air to flow through the sides of the container and your soil mixture. With this aeration, roots become more naturally fibrous. With more fibrous roots you can use a heavier, more water retentive mix that seems to support these plants better. You can use a mix that has some soil content. Example Fruits and Vegetables Using Smart Pot Containers: Learn how to grow tomatoes with our step-by-step guide : How To Grow Tomatoes Thinking about an herb garden? Check out this success story: The “Smart” Container Herb Garden

A Guide To Growing Tomatoes In a Smart Pot Container gardening tomatoes is a great way to garden in limited space. There are many ways to container garden and many products out there to help you. The Smart Pot® is one of the best. Here are some tips for your next container gardening adventure. 1. Make sure you have enough sunlight. Plants like tomatoes need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight. Make sure your container is positioned optimally. 2. Select Your Variety. Traditional container gardening focuses on smaller fruiting varieties of plants, such as cherry tomatoes. With the Smart Pot® fabric aeration container, you will be able to grow full size tomatoes and other vegetables. Of course, cherry tomatoes and smaller vegetables also thrive in the pot. We hope you will select a variety that performs well in your geographic area. 3. Choose a size. Since you have chosen the Smart Pot®, you can have fun with size. Many of our customers find a 10 gallon Smart Pot® is a good starting size for tomatoes. The 10 gallon is large enough to grow a nice plant, but still small enough to be portable. If you want to grow a larger tomato plant, use a larger Smart Pot®. We have seen full size cherry tomatoes grown in a 1 gallon Smart Pot® and the largest beefsteak tomato plant we have ever seen was grown in a 100 gallon Smart Pot®. Container size is up to you and your space. Plants like tomatoes need a lot of roots to produce a lot of fruit. The Smart Pot® creates those roots by air pruning. hat means growing more, smaller side roots by exposing it to the air that flows through the container. With the Smart Pot®, you should be able to grow a larger plant for the container size when compared to plastic containers. 4. Make your mix water retentive. Many mixes made for plastic containers are light, made to aerate. But the Smart Pot® is an aeration Container, breathing and aerating at the top, sides and bottom. So the ideal Smart Pot® mix, when compared to a medium prepared for plastic containers is more water retentive. Think of the Smart Pot® as a miniature raised bed. There are many recipes for making a water retentive mix. Ask your local grow store for recommendations. Another great way to treat your container is by top dressing with something like mulch, straw or shredded newspaper to maintain moisture. Water as needed. 5. Fertilization. Whether you are growing tomatoes or flowers, growing in containers requires fertilization. There are many nutrients and fertilizers, both organic and not, available. Consult your local grow store for recommendations which will be best suited for you and your plants. 6. Enjoy. When your neighbors see your tomatoes or peppers, be prepared for the inevitable question, “How did you grow that?” Then enjoy the homegrown tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers or parsley fresh from your Smart Pot®.